Chassis restoration and protection-waxoyl, por 15 or?

[artpeck]

Some where in the near future i will be removing the sheet metal for painting and tackling the chassis. What is required is cosmetic restoration as there is zero rust, and protection going forward. I am not at the moment planning on removing the engine or drive train so will be working around it as well. The current state it that the chassis appears to be simply painted (grease coated in the obvious places but there may be an undercoating of some sort in some places as well.
Having read many of the threads I am curious on views people have on what to do. My bias is clean and paint with the appropriate paint, either por 15 chassis paint or some other paint. I know a lot of people swear by waxoyl. Other ideas or thoughts? I also know that any paint will require meticulous cleaning and prep which may be a pita with the engine and drive train intact.
Also the truck is in northern California so not subject to road salts or climate extremes. Thanks for the help.

[LaneRover]

You do need to do something to the interior of the chassis if painting the outside, you may already be planning on that - hence your waxoyl comment.

[artpeck]

Planning on that and assuming waxoyl is the best option?

[LaneRover]

I know that many many people swear by it. But those who have used it will know much better than I.

Should have used it on my 109 p-up when I brought it to Maine!

[TedW]

My truck has been through 40 Maine winters. When I bought it 20 years ago the frame had been repaired in places, but was in very nice shape, thanks to the diligence of the PO's.
I waxoyled it inside and out; it looks the same today as when I bought it.

Be sure to use the hardwax on the outside and, most important IMO, use the cavity wax on the inside, as that is where rust starts in secret.

[artpeck]

How difficult is the application process for an inexperienced (as in never used it before) person like me to get it right?

[TSR53]

Video we made of applying Waxoyl 120-4 clear to the inside cavity areas.


Here is the video we made for preparation of black Waxoyl Hardwax for underneath your Land Rover and chassis (we used my wife's Audi S6) this is much the same for any vehicle.


Waxoyl FAQs
http://www.waxoyl-usa.com/waxoyl-faqs-tech-tips.html


It is best to use the Waxoyl application guns and pressurized air.

[alaskajosh]

How difficult is the application process for an inexperienced (as in never used it before) person like me to get it right?

Easy.
There is at least one good tutorial video on youtube.

Somewhat expensive to get into the sprayer tools and requires you have an air compressor, of course. The most expensive part is the Waxoyl product.

As a good alternative for the cavities, you might consider LPS3. It's a professional grade, waxy corrosion barrier used in aviation and industrial applications. I can get it for $60/gal (Alaskan prices) at a few of our better industrial supply houses. One gallon was enough for me to do all the cavities of a 109 regular (bulkhead channels, door channels, bonnet channels, and frame cavities) using the Waxoyl spray guns/wands.

I sat the full spray bottle in hot water for a few minutes before application to warm up/thin the product. Cold it has a thin pudding consistency. Warm, it's a thin liquid and I'm sure finds it's way into little cracks better. When it drys it is a clear coat that is somewhat soft but not tacky... you could easily dig a fingernail into it. As such I'd say it's suitable for inside cavities as a water/oxygen barrier but would not withstand the abrasions and wear of exterior surfaces.

Good luck with your project!

[JackIIA]

Josh,

Never heard of that stuff. I see online that you can get a gal for $50 here in the lower 40 (delivered though, closer to $70). Which I think is pretty darn good. Manufacturer's writeup below.

But abit surprised that it only lasts 2 years on parts stored indoors. I'd expect that if that's the case, it might have a similiar lifespan on internal frame parts??? Does the Waxonyl cavity spray last longer than that. That would be a deciding factor for me anyhow.


"LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor is a specially formulated long term corrosion inhibitor which will protect metal parts stored indoors for up to two years. When applied it forms a soft, transparent, waxy film which acts as an effective barrier sealing out moisture, air, acid, alkali fumes and other corrosive elements. LPS 3 is a superior lubricant for chains, cable and wire rope because it will not sling off. Its unique properties also make it ideally suited for industrial, aviation,electrical/electronic and automotive applications. LPS 3 meets or exceeds many important military and aviation specifications. LPS 3 does not contain chlorinated solvents, silicone, or halogens and is safe to use on paint and plastics. Nonflammable carbon dioxide is used as a propellant."

[TedW]

IMO Waxoyl is a bit thicker. LPS3 is almost watery at room temp, so you can apply it with a plant sprayer from Ace Hardware - and it has a very strong, sweet smell that gets old fast. Really stunk up the garage.

I put LPS3 inside my door channels once and sloshed it around; it does seem to creep well.

Having used both, I prefer Waxoyl: the cavity wax is a bit thicker and longer lasting (I believe), and the hardwax is great for outside the frame.
But all the LPS products have good reputations. In your environment it would probably be fine for inside the frame.

Factoid: British Northwest Land Rover Co. sold LPS3 as their miracle rustproofing: they took the LPS3 label off and put their own label on.