put engine on a stand and tore it down to the crank. Looks like crank needs to be groung and bearings replaced.
Anyone know the significance of "62" stamped on engine?
put engine on a stand and tore it down to the crank. Looks like crank needs to be groung and bearings replaced.
Anyone know the significance of "62" stamped on engine?
I have a question about part of the proceedure outlined in the green bible regarding crank shaft renewal. I notes to check the bearing nip, torque down the bearing cap, bearings in place, loosen one bolt and check for a clearance within spec. I have my crank at a machine shop where I instructed him to cut it to one of the undersize specs in the book.
I will then determine what size bearings to order based on where it cleans up. I am assuming that with the crank cut and correct bearings ordered that this should be correct. How is it adjusted if not correct? Any insight on this would be appretiated, don't like to assume, we all know what that means.
thanks
Bob
I understand the use of plastigauge and after reading the book again it is used as an alternative to the bearing nip method. The machine shop has the crank only so they cannot make these checks. I am making some assumptions here that if the crank is machined to tolerance and I purchase bearings for that size all clearences will be correct. I will check with plastigauge. I'm more curious about how the nip method works as these checks would not be difficult to make. It seems to me if you torqued down the bearing blocks and there is a bearing clearence of 0.0008"-0.00285" why would a gap occur when one side of the bearing block is loosened?
Took the crank in today.....