MoD 110 Floors

[GeoffWillis]

Hey folks, just droped the engine back into my defender 110 and am putting the transmission tunnel and floorboards back in. What sealant or gasket material is good to use? Talking about where floorboards join, need to keep water out, and vibration down.
It's been fun putting it back together, 70 deg temp, time off from work, and everything going together well. Minor problems with some of the studs holding eng/tans together, and trying to remember the wires... Got some damn green wire by the injection pump I can't remember/read what I wrote! Anyway, should be running this week end.
Geoff

[Terrys]

... Got some damn green wire by the injection pump I can't remember/read what I wrote!

Does your injection pump have a manual fuel shutoff, or solenoid? If it's solenoid, the grren wire, which is switched hot, should go to the IP.

[GeoffWillis]

Yes, there is a cut-off solenoid on the injection pump, but I've already got a wire running to that. All told I've got 3 wires un-accounted for:
1) Green- Runs close to the injection pump, but not quite long enough. Comes from the wire loom exiting the altenator. Needs electrical tape "Patching" as exposed copper visable in places.
2) White- Hangs in the area of the oil filter, but once again already wired. Could be oil tmp vice presures?
3) Purple with Blue- Once again, could reach the injection pump. but looks like it should be near fire wall instead.
Anyway, I'll be out there with a meter checking voltage and tracking them down.

Only other issues prior to turning the key:
1) Top off oil
2) Bleed air from fuel system (Line, filter, lift pump, injection pump, and injectors)
3) Antifreeze/Water
4) Charge Battery

Just got the registration done over the holidays, should be on the road this week!
Geoff

[lrdukdog]

[QUOTE=GeoffWillis;64257]Hey folks, just droped the engine back into my defender 110 and am putting the transmission tunnel and floorboards back in. What sealant or gasket material is good to use? Talking about where floorboards join, need to keep water out, and vibration down./QUOTE]

I always use rope caulk, it's non-hardening, pliable and easy to find in any "big box" store, They usually have it in the weather stripping section.
Jim Wolf

[GeoffWillis]

Thanks Jim, I'd been thinking about black RTV, but the Rope Calk sounds much better. Should be easier to apply and to remove should the floors need to come out again. Appreciate the input.
Geoff

[Les Parker]

I used some of the high density draught tape, 1" wide, that is sticky on one side and just foam on the other. Cut and shape to suit.

[GeoffWillis]

Ok folks, at the risk of sounding incompetant, I can't seem to bleed the fuel system on my truck. I cracked the bleed screw on top of the fuel filter, and cranked away at the lever on the lift pump with no results. I next cracked open the bleed screw on the injection pump and pulled a vacume on it thinking I could pull fuel from the tank, but no such luck. I know there is fuel in the tank, but what am I doing wrong? Seems relatively simple, and I was hoping to have it running tonight.
Thanks,
Geoff

[Moose]

You need to crack open the pipes at the injectors (all four) and crank away with the starter. Once you get fuel coming out, re-tighten and then hopefully it will start. I've been told the 2.5 NA's are notorious to bleed but mine fired up fairly easily after bleeding at the injectors.

Brett

[GeoffWillis]

You need to crack open the pipes at the injectors (all four) and crank away with the starter. Once you get fuel coming out, re-tighten and then hopefully it will start. I've been told the 2.5 NA's are notorious to bleed but mine fired up fairly easily after bleeding at the injectors.

Brett

Hi Brett, thanks for the advice, but a quick question. I originally considered doing just what you said, but was worried that since the injection pump was "New" (No fuel in it) that I might damage the new pump due to lack of lubrication. So I figgured I'd bleed the lines from tank to filter, and filter to pump, and then crack the injector line and bleed the rest of the system. I am concerned that after cranking away on the lift pump lever for so long with no results that I have a clog in the line, or problem with the tank pick up. I was going to pull the line off the sedimentor (Back by the tank) and see if I can get fuel there by applying a vacume.
While on the subject, why are all the fuel lines made out of this hard plastic? Seems very difficult to get a good connection on fuel filter, or anywhere they don't screw into. I know before all this happend, I could see fuel weeping out of some of the lines while the engine was running. Just not enough to worry about... It would seem replacing the lines with clear plactic would really help diagnose fuel problems.
Anyway, I'm going to try the vacume on sedimenter tonight and see were that gets me. If I've got fuel there, I'll probably use your method and hope the pump doesn't get damaged.
Geoff

[Moose]

Yeah Geoff, I understand your concern wiith regards to the newly rebuilt pump. I've never read anything about having to primp the injector pump first before spining the engine over, but that doesn't mean it isn't a good idea. I would think though that during reassembly the rebuilders would have used some sort of lube in there to prevent a dry start. I suppose they would be the folks to ask.

As far as the lift pump goes, try cranking the engine over by hand half a turn then try the lift pump lever again. Seems if the pump arm is sitting on the cam lobe, you won't get any action from the pump. Couple small turns of the engine should find you the sweet spot.

On my 110, every five months or so, I need to pull the fuel line off at the sedimenter and blow some air into the tank as there is something in there causing a blockage. Even tried draining and flushing the tank once but no joy.

Keep at it and let us know how you make out.

Brett