Any tips on rewiring?

[masonater]

I am at the point of beginning a total rewire of my 109 and wondering if anyone has any tips that would be helpful to get me through it. Since i am working at an airport a few guys around here are willing to help me but they have only done planes, never cars. I like the idea of using breakers instead of fuses, and have lots lying around ranging from 1 to 40 amps. I would like to ditch the key and use a master switch. The only things i am going to add will be a couple 12v accessory plugs and fog lights. I already have 300 feet of 14 gage wire, 100 of red, green, and black. Lots of aviation wire to use too but its something like 20 or 22 gage. I've heard from reading several posts that the gages run on less than 12v because of a voltage regulator? I know this is a very vague question but any input would help for sure.

[superstator]

Yes, there's a voltage regulator that is supposed to supply 10v steady to various gauges and senders. I can heartily recommend these guys for a solid state replacement if you don't already have a working example, and don't care about "original" for an electronic part hidden deep in the dash:

http://classicstabilizers.webs.com/information.htm

[mongoswede]

here is another good source for all things vehicle electrical...switches, breakers, wire, panels etc.

http://order.waytekwire.com/productd...%20ATO%20FUSE/

[SeriesShorty]

I finished my wiring a few months ago and I used elevator hoistway wiring. It was already bundled with 4 white wires, 4 black wires, and a green wire. Luckily, all the wires are numbered. I ran the bundle through the frame rail then split all the white to one side, all the black to one side, and am using the green for my rear 12v accessory plug/work lamp. My wiring diagram identifies everything by numbers instead of colors so it's pretty nifty.

I used a 12 circuit (I think it was 12 anyways) fuse box that I got pretty cheap off eBay. I mounted that in the passenger dash area and pulled my front harness wires through the gauge area and the front bulkhead.

I am using standard GM type of ignition switch/key, headlight switch, and toggle switches on the dash to control everything. They were easy to find and cheap.

I used some waterproof relays that I found off of misc. 90's GM cars at the junkyard for my horn, low beams, high beams, and fogs. I also took the brackets that the relays mounted on. They are all lined up on the inside of the wing and look very clean.

I cut the rear harness off where it comes out of the frame rail under the footwell and left a few inches hanging out. I attached my new wiring to it, then pulled it through the frame rail at the rear. I used a helper to push through from end while I pulled from the other to make sure it didn't get bound up and tear or nick the insulation. Worked like a charm.

I haven't finished the turn signal wiring and I am not using a voltage stabilizer for the gauges. I removed all of my gauges except the speedo so I don't have a need for a stabilizer right now. My truck was 24v so if I ever get it running again I'll have to get some 12v fuel gauge/senders and a stabilizer.

Other than that, I don't really have any specific tips. Just plan our your diagram and make adjustments as you go. Document your new diagram for future reference. I have mine on recipe cards that I'll eventually laminate and keep in a waterproof pouch that I hope to build into the seat back.

Good luck and have fun!
J