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Thread: Charge light on

  1. #1

    Default Charge light on

    I just finished replacing a hub oil seal in my 1970 88" Series 2A. When I went for a test drive, there was no problem with the seal, but my charge light is now glowing brightly and doesn't get brighter or dimmer regardless of engine speed This has been a good vehicle electrically speaking, unitl this-no problems whatsoever. So my question is this-how do I isolate the problem to either the generator or voltage regulator? Battery appears to be OK at 12.15 volts steady. And is it possible I distubed a ground wire when I was changing out the right rear hub seal?

    And if it matters, the truck sat for about 2 weeks until I got the oil seal repaired.

    Thanks for any suggestions in advance.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    78

    Default

    There's no connection between the the seal replacement on the charge light problem. It is simply that you have/had two problems at the same time.

    It might not be a regulator problem. Try giving the generator a sharp rap with a hammer. The brushes have a habit of sticking when they have some age and the rap could loosen them. If this does remedy the problem you'll soon need to have the generator serviced.
    John

  3. #3

    Default Charge light problem solved

    John-

    Thanks for the suggestion. I think I figured it out just now. The wire to the temp sensor was frayed at the connector. I guess it was shorting out the gauge itself-maybe that explains why the light stayed on and didn't brighten or dim. I changed out the connector and the charge light is out, but does coming on just at startup per usual. Thanks for the help.

    Oh, and I hope I never have to replace the generator. How the heck do you get to the bottom bolt?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by a109
    There's no connection between the the seal replacement on the charge light problem. John
    I beg to differ. There is a connection, all British cars share it.

    Fix one thing, and something else breaks.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bob7088
    John-



    Oh, and I hope I never have to replace the generator. How the heck do you get to the bottom bolt?
    From underneath.
    It you think thats a bit daunting look at some of the modern vehicles
    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Southern Indiana, USA
    Posts
    126

    Default

    On the same page, when the truck is in idle the charge light should come on, right ? and when you give it the gas the light goes off, is this correct. thanks for the help.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

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    Quote Originally Posted by sayers
    On the same page, when the truck is in idle the charge light should come on, right ? and when you give it the gas the light goes off, is this correct. thanks for the help.
    Thats the way mine works. But I like keeping a real low idle speed which could be causing some of it.

    It's a beautiful thing when you can barely hear the engine at idle.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Vinalhaven, ME
    Posts
    569

    Default Generator Light and Removal

    I still have a generator on one of my '66 II-A's. As the brushes wore on that unit, the generator light would come on when the car idled; I, too, set the idle at a low rpm. Once I accelerated, the light would go off and the amp gauge would indicate a charge.

    When I had to rebuild the generator by putting in new brushes, the light does not come on at idle, only when the key is turne to "on."

    As for removing the generator, oh, boy. There were two nuts on a threaded rod that had to be removed. Both had been on the car too long without anyone taking the time to move the nuts. If there was ever any anti-seize lathered on, it was not evident. I needed an odd combination of ratchets, extentions, and sockets and wrenches to finally remove the nuts. Then I found the generator itself was pretty well seized into place.

    Installing the new brushes was a piece of cake. Reinstalling the generator took a lot less time than it did to remove it.

    Jeff
    Jeff Aronson
    Vinalhaven, ME 04863
    '66 Series II-A SW 88"
    '66 Series II-A HT 88"
    '80 Triumph TR-7 Spider
    '80 Triumph Spitfire
    '66 Corvair Monza Coupe
    http://www.landroverwriter.com

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    78

    Default

    Jeff.
    That brings back memories of adjusting your voltage regulator at Ron Mowray's place in Maine close on 20 yrs ago.

    John

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