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Thread: Ripped the Band Aid off! Build Thread and Advice Sought.

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Any secrets or tips for getting the front fenders and wheel wells off? Bulkhead off?

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Boyle Heights, Ca. (L.A.)
    Posts
    108

    Default ditto

    well ph4.... i ripped the "band aid" too this week end.... am replacing the rear cross member due to rust.... nice 109 u gots!
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by l.a. rover View Post
    well ph4.... i ripped the "band aid" too this week end.... am replacing the rear cross member due to rust.... nice 109 u gots!
    Good luck. I am going to try and remove the bulkhead tomorrow.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Any secrets or tips for getting the front fenders and wheel wells off? Bulkhead off?
    Yah, undo all the nut plates, nuts and bolts. They come right off after that. You will learn new body positions that you weren't aware that you are capable of, especially when getting after the mud shield upper fixings.
    If you are working alone, a pair of vise grips on the other side is the best approach to nuts that you can't reach around for. Don't worry about snapping off anything, it is all still available.

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Pressure washed and went all over it with a hammer and screw driver. Only surface rust except where the rear portion of the area where the rear shock absorber attaches and very little there. I was able to get the flakes off with hammer and chisel and it was only minor on the top. Please see photos below and would like to hear thoughts and comment from the forum. Best regards,

    Attachment 6490Attachment 6491Attachment 6492Attachment 6493Attachment 6494

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Shoreline, WA
    Posts
    408

    Default

    One of the main reasons these frames rust from the inside out is that the outside, being more exposed to the air, dries quicker than the inside. Since these frames are mostly sealed it's hard to tell, maybe you could borrow a borescope and look inside.
    Gale Breitkreutz
    '03 Disco
    '74 Series III 88 (sold, 4/13)
    '47 CJ2A

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    norwich, ct
    Posts
    587

    Default

    looks great
    aaron
    73 series III 88 2.5 na diesel daily driver
    67 series 2a 88 RHD sold
    88 RRC sold
    60 mga coupe

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Progress today. The Bulkhead was a tough one. I still have not decided on the whether to replace the chassis. Part of me thinks to do so since everything is apart, however, the original chassis seems to be in very good condition at least on the outside. Miles to go before I sleep.
    Attachment 6502Attachment 6503Attachment 6504Attachment 6505Attachment 6506

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default

    Best use for the 109 Tub you just removed from your Series. Part of "The Fort". Attachment 6507

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    1,199

    Default

    Gad, those wings have me drooling even with the effed up looking diamond tread stuff on them. You just cannot get them any where.

    Just buy a new galvanized chassis. Fooling with the old one, no matter what you do to it, you'll always wonder if it is bad inside.
    I went with new on mine for this exact reason. Originality is of absolutely no consequence as far as value is concerned.

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