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Thread: which camshaft should I install

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Ridgefield CT
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    Default which camshaft should I install

    Which camshaft should I install into my 2.25? I am thinking about the 2.5 camshaft, can some one tell me if it is worth the money? And, what type of performance will it give me.

    Thanks,
    Kevin

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
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    1,358

    Default 2.5 is good.

    You have a choice of:
    2.25 OEM cam - Most places won't even sell these any more.
    2.5 OEM cam - A good upgrade. IIRC it helps a fair bit with the top end power with only a slight sacrifice of bottom end torque. From memory they are no more expensive than a 2.25 cam.
    Something fancy from the likes of ACR - a fair chunk of cash and supposed to add a good amount of power. This can add up to a lot of money when you get into the rest of their mods.

    Upgrading the cam will add power but you will only realise the full potential if you combine it with other upgrades to make the engine breathe better - its all about the volumetric efficiency. At least servise the carb, do a valve job if required, check the compression (An 8:1 CR head is a great upgrade with the cam) and a K&N air filter if your usage will allow all help and definitely put in good leads (Magnecor are great), plugs and if nothing else replace the points with electronic ignition for a good consistent spark.

    None of the cams by themselves will turn a Series truck into a drag racer but they will make it a bit more driveable.

    The 2.5 cam is the way to go for the money.

  3. #3
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    Oct 2006
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    Ridgefield CT
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    309

    Default camshaft

    greenmeanie,
    Thanks for the reply,

    I forgot to say that the engine has a turner hp head and a weber one barrel on it already. it has about 20k on since it was rebuilt.

    I'll go ahead and install the 2.5 cam, I can alwas add the exhaust and other mods later.

    Thanks again.
    kevin

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
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    613

    Default

    If you're going to go w/ wthe 2.5 cam, I'd suggest instead of the exhaust, go with a pierce intake or equivalent with the 2 barrel Weber, especially since you have the Turner head.

    FWIW...
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    CT, USA
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Kevin,
    If you're going to go with the 2.5 cam you should take a look at the ACR website. I never liked the Weber 32/36 DGV carb but I am interested in the SU as an alternative. It's part of ACR's hot set up. I know you have a Falcon stainless exhaust but the NRP's are really a nice upgrade to benefit the cam and carb mods.

    When you're ready to take the plunge, you know I have a 3.9L sitting here for you!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Glenwood,N.B. Canada
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    57

    thumb-up

    Quote Originally Posted by kevin-ct
    Which camshaft should I install into my 2.25? I am thinking about the 2.5 camshaft, can some one tell me if it is worth the money? And, what type of performance will it give me.

    Thanks,
    Kevin
    Have a read here Kevin...good tuning info http://www.landroveraddict.com/smf/i...?topic=46415.0

    It's an old tech thread from the Land Rover Addict (UK) Forum
    regards; Dave
    A 1997 Discovery guy from


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kohanaiki Village, 1200' elevation, Kona Coast of Hawaii Island.
    Posts
    3

    Default Love the 32/36 Weber

    I've got a 2.5 cam in my 2 1/4. Head was milled to 8-1 specs and a home brew port and polish job with a Weber 32/36. Significant improvement in torque and hp throughout the rpm range.

    I've been running the two barrel Weber for more than 20 years. A number of different 32/36's on engines, both 88's and a 109. I really like the carb, it gives good gas mileage if you stay out of the second venturi which is easy to do up to at least 60mph. When you need the power, floor it, open the 2nd Venturi and watch it dump lots of fuel in the engine. The Carbs are dead simple and easy to work on. Two potential problems, they may have icing tendencies if you habitually drive in high humidity temps just above freezing. Pearce sells a heated manifold to overcome this problem. I've never experienced the icing problem, wonder why?? The other is possible glitch is being prone to junk in the main jets. The jets sit near the bottom of the float bowl so anything in the float bowl could easily be sucked into the jet. I've always run plastic inline filters and have NEVER had a problem in well over 50,000 miles. The carb didn't even crud up with a severely rusty fuel tank that would block up the filter and sediment bowl in a few miles.

    In your case, the single barrel Webe will choke the engine and probably not give any appreciable increase in performance over a completely stock engine. I'd look at either the Rochester, Weber or SU carb along with a hotter cam if you don't want to waste time and money.

    Aloha
    Peter O.

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