Gas not getting to carb?

[alligatorfoot]

Hi,
Before jumping the gun and replacing the fuel pump and looking for a block in the gas tank this upcoming weekend I figured I would reach out to see if anyone had insight about the inability to get gas into my carb. Here is the background:
My petrol (NOT diesel) truck ran out of gas, got AAA to add in about half a gallon in to get me home and for the last two months I have had the car in the garage while doing a variety of cosmetic work (did not start it). Long story short is that I went to start it up, cranks but won't kick over. I put in quick start into the carb (multiple times) and it kicks over starts and then dies back out. It is clearly a fuel delivery issue. Added another 2 gallons into the tank, still nothing. Although unlikely to really help I took the gas cap off to help the gas flow easier and still nothing. Rocked the car in the event that debris was covering the line exiting the gas tank, still nothing. Not sure what to do next given that I have not done anything mechanically to the car since it last started? Can a fuel pump go bad sitting there (also I have a clear fuel filter and it looks dry). Any ideas that anyone has would be greatly appreciated.

Best Regards,
Mark

[stomper]

Your fuel pump, if original should have a glass sediment bowl attached to it. you need to clean it out, as it is likely plugged with crap from running the tank dry. take a moment while you are there to blow some compressed air down the fuel lines. If that doesn't work, just undo the pick up tube from the fuel tank, and check to see if it is clogged.

[I Leak Oil]

...and if you have an original style pump it will have a primer lever. What does it do when you pump it? Does fuel flow to the filter? If you disconnect the line at the carb and prime it does fuel come out?

[alligatorfoot]

Thanks for the insight. l have the metal one. Is it possible to take this one out and apart and clean it out? I tried to gently tap at it to possibly jar lose any sediment but didn't try too hard for fear of busting it.

[stomper]

No way to clean it, but it can be rebuilt. Check the pick up in the tank, there are just 2 screws holding it in. Blow out the lines from the pump back to the tank, or if they are old, replace them with rubber line from the Autopart store. Prime the hand lever to see if you can draw fuel up to the pump, and then see if you can draw it through the line to the carb. All this should only take you about 30-45 minutes. Then you will know a lot more about your problem.

[disco2hse]

Long story short is that I went to start it up, cranks but won't kick over. I put in quick start into the carb (multiple times) and it kicks over starts and then dies back out. It is clearly a fuel delivery issue. Added another 2 gallons into the tank, still nothing.

It is not clear that this is a fuel supply problem. Your description indicates a lack of spark (electrical). With ether or engine start, a weak spark will turn it over until the highly volatile fuel is burned off, then it will die.

You should check your plugs for indications of condensation/oil and work backwards from there, through the leads, distributor cap and points, condenser, coil, earths and even the battery itself (check that the battery has 12.4V available).

[o2batsea]

I don't know where you get that Alan. It does start and run on ether so it's not electrical. The other thing one might check is the needle valve in the carb. It can get gummed in place especially after sitting for a long while with no gas. Float drops as the gas in the bowl evaporates, leaving the needle valve stuck closed.
No amount of priming or even replacing the fuel pump will cure that. So, you gotta check the bowl which means pulling the top off the carb and cleaning the valve and seat. Might as well check the float setting as long as you're in there. Oh and clear out any crud in the bottom of the bowl.
To check the fuel pump take the inlet hose off the carb and point it into a glass jar. Go crank the engine about ten revs. Go check the amount of fuel in the jar. If it looks like a healthy dose, the pump is good. Your problem is the carb. If not, then the trouble is between the pump and the tank.

[bugeye88]

Yep, it could be a needle valve. You didn't mention what carb you have, but they are all vulnerable to this, some more than others. Weber 34 ICT carbs are especially prone to this as the valve is at the bottom of the float bowel. An inline fuel filter before the carb will help prevent this. As batsea said, it's a good idea to check this first, then all the other suggestions on fuel lines and pumps. I run a electric pump after the mechanical one that has an on and off switch in the cab to prime the carb for quick starts (saves the starter) and can serve if the mechanical one fails.

KTF
Rob

[stomper]

I disagree with cracking open the carb first, but I guess it is just semantics and personal preference. I prefer to rule out the simple things first, and cracking open the carb, while not challenging, does require a little more time and precision. Plus, you will likely need a new gasket to seal the carb if it hasn't been opened in a while, as the gasket gets brittle and typically cracks upon separating the carb.

Additionally, if the clear inline filter appears dry, like the OP states, then it isn't likely to be a carb issue. His symptoms started after running out of fuel, which would suggest debris, not a stuck needle valve. Diagnosing any problem is difficult over the internet, especially without additional information. Until some additional info is provided, we can all punt around suggestions, but it may just confuse the OP in his areas to check and diagnose the issue.

[bugeye88]

Yeah, sure.... It could be any or some combination of the things suggested in this thread. I think everyone is trying to help out with things that have helped them in similar situations with Landy's or other vintage cars. All good.