Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Series 2A brake junctions

  1. #1

    Default Series 2A brake junctions

    I bought the brake line kit from RoversNorth and saved the multi-way junctions from the original lines.

    However, the old junctions don't mate properly with the new line-ends.

    Do I really need to buy new junctions? The weird thing is that the rear lines still screw into the rear brakes with no problem. The rear brake lines (at the junction end) have a blank tip with no thread. Inserting the end into the junction barely allows a single thread to mesh with the junction's threads.

    The old lines don't have the blank no-threaded tip.

    What am I missing?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Flagstaff, Arizona
    Posts
    1,087

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by markhutch View Post
    I bought the brake line kit from RoversNorth and saved the multi-way junctions from the original lines.

    However, the old junctions don't mate properly with the new line-ends.

    Do I really need to buy new junctions? The weird thing is that the rear lines still screw into the rear brakes with no problem. The rear brake lines (at the junction end) have a blank tip with no thread. Inserting the end into the junction barely allows a single thread to mesh with the junction's threads.

    The old lines don't have the blank no-threaded tip.

    What am I missing?
    The correct junctions. It appears than someone at one time converted your truck to US brake fittings.

    The UK male fittings are longer with the unthreaded nose. The UK female fittings are deeper than the US fittings. You may have had a mix of the two on your truck.

    The UK male fitting as you have noticed will only have a couple threads engages then the flare is seated. A US male fitting will screw completely in and the flair will not seat properly into a UK female fitting. Order a UK spec junction. That way they will properly fit your cylinders.

    It is time to unbasterize your truck and eliminate a potentially dreaded previous owner bodge.

  3. #3

    Default

    Tom Rowe

    Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
    in places even more inaccessible.

    62 88 reg
    67 NADA x2
    74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
    95 D1 - R380
    95 D90 - R380
    97 D1 - ZF

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the link (antichrist)(?!) and advice (TeriAnn). Since my 2A was built in Solihull with LHD and shipped to Canada for a hard life in the Canadian Forestry Dept I can well believe I have a mix of brake-line fittings. Since I'm partial to stopping when I hit the brakes and am going to convert fronts to discs very soon I shall probably go with an all US fittings.

    I know that will horrify some hardened restorationists out there but since this machine is never going to the UK anytime soon it makes sense (to me at least) to convert it to US/Canadian fittings. For my own sanity and whoever takes over the beasty after me.

    The info is much appreciated though as I couldn't figure out why the RoversNorth line kit was so obviously "wrong". And I don't see why I should pay $110 for a 4-way junction when for that price I can buy a double-flaring tool AND the junction from my local supplier.

    Thanks again.

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us