High speed is full voltage going through the switch to the motor.
Low speed puts a resister in series with the motor which provides less voltage to the motor. The motor turns slower. You could have a bad connection in the switch or the resister could be bad. It is VERY common for these resisters to burn out.
Sorry I do not know the resistance and power rating of the low speed resister.
Should be integral with the switch mechanism. I replaced mine with a two position pull heater switch from NAPA. Mounts in the same place and functions the same.
Should be integral with the switch mechanism. I replaced mine with a two position pull heater switch from NAPA. Mounts in the same place and functions the same.
So you didnt keep the original switch and just converted to a toggle?
If it helps, this is the one I used to replace my Mark 3 heater switch. To the best of my understanding it is the same as the original (though I can't comment on whether the same is true for the Mk4).
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The switch on my Mark III was missing the resistor so I used a pulse width modulator I picked up on Ebay. Now I have variable speed control. Much nicer in my opinion. I also picked up a new blower motor at Napa. They had it in stock!
1976 Honda CB750F1
1974 Honda CB360G
1967 Series IIA
When I installed my Mk.IV, I didn't have (not did I want) the Kodiak control panel, cables and switch. Below the instrument panel I have two push-pull cable to operate the water vale and fresh air flap (they sit right next to, and inline with, the factory choke cable). For the motor I used a Lucas toggle switch available from our host. Since the Mk.IV fresh air intake feeds from the front grill, this forced air is my low speed (it's dead quiet too!). If I need to fill the 109's void with hot air, I flip the switch!
Everything I need without cluttering up the metal dash!
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