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Thread: Choke cable issue

  1. #1

    Default Choke cable issue

    Problem1: With choke pushed in, choke cable housing not seated in the carburetor mechanism in the engine compartment (see picture). When I pull the choke all that happens is the cable housing seats itself but the choke cable itself does not move the carburetor mechanism that regulates the gas/air mix.

    - How do i get the choke cable to actuate the gas/air mix mechanism?

    Problem 2: the gas/air mix mechanism seems to need some lubrication at its pivot points. It is very "sticky", for lack of a more artful term, probably since the choke cable hasn't been moving it for a while.

    - What type of lubrication would people recommened on these pivot points?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2

    Default

    After lubricating the gas/air mechanism which the choke cable actuates, I am able to get the mechanism to work when I pull the choke. However, when I push the choke back in, only the housing around the choke cable moves, the cable itself does not move and the mechanism remains actuated.

    Ideas? Help?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Auckland, New Zealand
    Posts
    78

    Default

    From the picture, it looks like you have a ferrule at the end of your cable. The ferrule is clamped onto the carb, but the cable housing is moving because it's not attached permanently to the ferrule.

    I suggest that you remove the cable and housing altogether. Remove the cable from the housing, clean the cable and try and get the crud out of the cable housing. Grease it with lithium grease, and reinstall, but without the metal ferrule on the end of the cable i.e. clamp the cable housing directly to the carburettor.

    Let us know how you get on...

    '71 Series IIa "Horace"
    88", RHD, 2.25 petrol.
    New Zealand.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Bethelehem, PA
    Posts
    51

    Default

    Hard to see on the pic, but the bottom line is that it's an adjustment issue, on either end of the inner or outer cable. The outer cable is too short, or the inner too long, depending on your point of view.

    Somewhere there is an adjustment, either a set screw on the inner cable or in the case of a ferrule there should be an adjustable "barrel" on the outer cable. (Remember the brake cables on your bicycle?)

    However it is set up, adjust the inner or outer cable until the outer JUST seats with the choke pushed in. Now when you pull the choke the outer cable immediately provides the resistance for the inner cable to do it's job.

    PB Blaster is my favorite "happy juice".
    Hannibal...... 1964 SIIA 88" NAS.....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    The outer sheath of the cable needs to be "captive" at both ends. Yours has broken free of the end piece that is braced by the carb. The inner cable/wire is adjusted only at the carb end, where it is clamped to the armature that dictates the amount of choke.

    See my two pictures below:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by lumpydog View Post
    The outer sheath of the cable needs to be "captive" at both ends. Yours has broken free of the end piece that is braced by the carb. The inner cable/wire is adjusted only at the carb end, where it is clamped to the armature that dictates the amount of choke.
    Yes. This is the problem.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

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