Looking to purchase first Land Rover and would like some thoughts

[REDrum]

For a whole bunch of reasons i gave up on owning diesel series trucks. Things I would encourage you to consider:
- Do you know local mechanic who knows diesel if not series diesel? Unless you know diesels well already, having someone you can rely on and learn from is key.
- How long may you be driving said diesel to the Pine Barrens? An (ro)overdrive will get you another 5MPH an a little less engine noise
- If you have not already, drive one on tarmac; go for a nice long drive like 30/40 miles in varying roads.
- Depending on age of engine you may be running 1/2 of the factory spec'd flywheel hp, and that is very noticeable. A buddy put a 2.25 Diesel Series on a dyno in 2wd and its best pull was 22hp at the wheels....
- While you don't need a lot of HP for mud, you will need softer springs (parabolics) and good mud specific tires. For when you run out of talent in mud, be sure and have recovery boards (Maxtrax) and/or winch.
- Parts are available in US but some may have to be sourced from across the pond and that can take weeks

[ernest.irw]

First to inspect on an old land rover is the chassis make sure it is not a rust bucket, look underneath and check the cross member and outriggers for rust. Second to inspect for rust is the bulkhead, if there are many weld patches it is best to look a different rover. Chassis and bulkhead of land rover series are the most important part of the vehicle because most of its body panels are built around them and it is time consuming and quite expensive to rebuild compared to other parts of its body panels. The other body panels are mostly aluminium they are thin plates but durable and easy to replace and fix.
If it is original engine I will go for the petrol engine because it is easier to fix than diesels. The three major flaw of land rover series are 1. Transmission oil leak, 2. Steering relay 3. Brakes.
For the first flaw (oil leak) there are no real 100% oil leak free for old land rover series, there must be some leak and it is a good sign that the vehicle still have some oil in it. Land rover steering relay must be maintained regularly but its location is very hard to reach and most people just forget to service that important part, best solution is to add power steering. The third flaw are the brakes, they are durable but not enough stopping power best to modify the front brakes to disc and add booster.
For electrics, just upgrade to newer system such as adding relays, bigger amps alternator, cdi, etc.
For other parts, they are like most old car that have to be inspect and serviced regularly. Off road in the mud? It is land rovers' natural habitat. Good luck. Have fun.

[printjunky]

I agree with pretty much all of ernest's (and many others') points, but to chime in myself:

As ernest said, I'd put frame condition at #1 priority. In case it's been painted or coated, I'd bring a hammer and tap around for too many dead spots. As mentioned, particularly outriggers and cross members, but I see rust near spring perches as well.

Door bottoms (rectangular channel section) often rust badly. If they are bad, you are more likely to have bulkhead (firewall), footwell and door post issues, A good telltale there can be rust streaks on the outside, down from joints and fasteners anywhere around where the passenger compartment meets the engine bay.

I'd not worry about frame (or footwell, etc) welds if they appear well done and there is no evidence of hidden corrosion (if it's hidden, how do you know? The aforementioned streaking, paint bubbling, etc). (eventually we'll all weld something, on the frame or around the firewall).

I also agree, in some respects, with the electrics upgrade. I grafted in a mid-90s Caddy fusebox (sacrilege to some) with relays to run everything in a safer and more modern way. I also put modern seats, and parabolics, among other ongoing upgrades (all most important for a daily driver like mine. Less so on a weekend warrior). Oh, and ABSOLUTELY put electronic ignition in. I have a pertronix. Easy and inexpensive.

I agree with the petrol engine. Though I have no personal experience with the diesels, I can tell you that when you get the 2.25P dialed in, it can run like a champ. Which is why I disagree strongly with all of the comments about highway manners. I can run 60MPH (without an overdrive!) straight as an arrow, and smooth as silk, all day without much problem. Sure, it's loud, and sure, it's a bit spendy, gas-wise. But I do multiple 4-plus hour trips in my SIII 88" every year. I've had it up to 66 without feeling like I was pushing extremes (except maybe decibels).

Also, my brakes are fine, and only slightly less so pulling my 1,500-ish pound boat. Even in their "pump-em' a bit" air infiltrated state right now. Maybe I'm just used to it and drive accordingly, but I find they match the power of the motor pretty fairly (and GVWR, I suppose).

There is, of course, and as many have mentioned, more maintenance involved than a modern car, in keeping it dialed in. But you likely expect that if you're looking at older Rovers. And I also agree that having a strong mechanical skillset and a troubleshooting mentality will help a LOT. As well as the mindset of listening to, and feeling what the Rover is telling you as you drive. It's not a vehicle you can generally just get in, turn on and mindlessly drive.