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Thread: Need to "tap" starter motor....

  1. #1

    Default Need to "tap" starter motor....

    I have a Series III. Original starter motor. Battery is fresh and holding a good charge. Climate controlled garage kept. Always turns over. Started her a few times today fine after behind outside over night in rainy, humid conditions. Then I turned the key and got a loud click but no turnover. Headlights held a strong beam so battery was fine. Friend suggested I "tap" the starter with a piece of wood or hammer while someone turns the key. I crawled under vehicle; they turned the key; I "tapped" the starter a couple times and it fired up great.

    What's up with that? Is that a sign that the starter is beginning to fail and needs replacing? Thoughts? Similar experience? Recommendations? How easy a job to replace for a guy with modest engine experience?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    A few thoughts here:

    1). Starter issues are almost always fixed by checking your grounds. There are usually two wires that are involved here. The ground strap from the battery to the frame. And, a ground strap from the frame to the starter or the frame to the engine. On both wires/straps, remove both ends and make sure they are clean and are giving you metal-to-metal contact. Using sand paper on the ring ends will remove paint, gunk, etc. 400-600 grit will do the trick. Make sure any paint on the chassis is removed in the contact area so it's metal to metal - again, sand paper. Use sand paper to clean the hole that the bolt goes into/trough. Think - maximum metal to metal contact.

    2) The starter is a simple device - removing it involves undoing two bolts that take some contortion to get to. There are several size starter and down pipe location combinations - for some, you have to remove the exhaust down pipe (I had to do this). For others, a little tilting of the starter backing it up and tiling it vertically and dropping it down will do the trick. Servicing the starter involves checking the bearings and brushes - two long bolts are all you need to remove to get at the internals. Make sure, when it spins, the bearings feel smooth. The brushes wear and can lose contact with the commutator. You can buy new brushes cheaply - good to have a spare in hand. Also, check the gear apparatus to make sure it extends and retracts and the spring isnt cracked.

    This is one of the first things I tackled when I was new to Rovers and is a pretty easy project. Gotchas are the exhaust down-pipe needing to be moved. It's three nuts and then lowering the down-pipe off the manifold studs and shifting it out of the way. The nuts can be seized to the studs and if you break a stud, that can be a bigger problem. Soak the nuts in PB Blaster for a bit if you have to move the exhaust down-pipe.

    PS. Some will recommend buying a new starter. I prefer the old rover ones. They're build like a brick-****-house and are basic/easy to maintain.
    Last edited by lumpydog; 04-13-2016 at 02:31 PM. Reason: typos & clarification
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    Probably developing a flat spot between the brushes and commutator. Pretty common. Get it rebuilt sooner than later as the poor connection will cause a higher draw and more damage.

    Yes, do the usual checking of the connections and grounds first.
    .....and never rule out the battery just because the lights work. Starter requires far more juice!
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Pound Ridge, New York, USA
    Posts
    55

    Default

    Sounds like the solenoid is sticking. It's the lump on the side of the starter housing. It's the electrically activated switch that sends the large amperage juice to the starter motor.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Park City UT
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Thats what I was thinking.... a solenoid sticking. The iron core of the solenoid sticks in the bore of the solenoid. Rust and other gunk does this. Used to be more common in old cars and this was the temp fix.. give it a good tap. Granted it could be the starter itself, but the solenoid is more likely.

    Cheers,
    Rob
    Bugeye88

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks everyone for the replies. After a night back in the low humidity garage it started great today. I'm suspecting it has become accustomed to low humidity storage and was rebelling against being outside in the rain and damp. Checked all the connections. No issues. Solenoid is of the stand alone variety - not an appendage to the starter. Easy to access next to the battery tray and a cheap replacement. Might do that. Will also get a voltage meter to see if electricity is flowing right through the system. If after that the starter issue reappears, I will pull the starter.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    Perhaps just a coincidence as tapping the starter is unlikely to free up a remote solenoid mounted up by the battery.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by I Leak Oil View Post
    Perhaps just a coincidence as tapping the starter is unlikely to free up a remote solenoid mounted up by the battery.
    No, but it could do something for worn/sticky brushes on the starter motor though.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    Yup.
    Jason
    "Clubs are for Chumps" Club president

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