Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: No spark - bypassing the ignition switch?

  1. #1

    Smile No spark - bypassing the ignition switch?

    I replaced the ignition coil on my iia because I thought it was the cause of a no spark condition. I still don't get any spark doing the test from the ignition coil main cable to the block. starter motor cranks just fine.

    My thought is there is something wrong in the LT circuit and I want to bypass the ignition switch to eliminate it from consideration.

    Any other ideas would be grand!

    Thanks for reading.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mountains of Western Pennsy.
    Posts
    592

    Default

    Start with the source of electric (battery), with a muti-meter set in the 12V range or a test light. Do you have power to the ignition switch? Is power leaving the ignition switch? Do you have power to the coil? Do you have power leaving the coil? Is there power at the points? Is the condenser toast? Unless you start with the power source and confirm each component down the line you'll end up guessing and changing parts all over the place.

    '99 Disco II
    '95 R.R.C. Lwb (Gone...)
    '76 Series III Hybrid 109
    '70 Rover 3500S

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Mt Rose highway, near Reno, NV
    Posts
    225

    Default

    If the starter is cranking, the ignition switch is working fine. No? Check the LT wire running from the coil to the distributor. Old/cracked? If you have a multimeter check continuity on the wire (this flimsy little wire causes exactly what you are seeing). Then make sure the points haven't slipped and aren't opening. Did you replace the points? If you did, hopefully you didn't ground then by not installing them correctly by isolating them with the little plastic washers (also would cause what you are seeing).
    --David

    1959 TR3
    1970 Series IIa 88" ("Homer")

    My hovercraft is full of eels.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    The Granite State (NH)
    Posts
    3,435

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mearstrae View Post
    Start with the source of electric (battery), with a muti-meter set in the 12V range or a test light. Do you have power to the ignition switch? Is power leaving the ignition switch? Do you have power to the coil? Do you have power leaving the coil? Is there power at the points? Is the condenser toast? Unless you start with the power source and confirm each component down the line you'll end up guessing and changing parts all over the place.
    Good advise, but my personal preference is to start at the other end and see if I have power where I should and work my way backwards till I find it.
    --Mark

    1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel

    0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
    (9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us