Page 1 of 10 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 96

Thread: My 73 Series 3 Project

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default My 73 Series 3 Project

    *This original post gets updated when one or more of the original issues is resolved. Resolutions are listed in green

    Sup guys,
    I have posted on here a couple of times, but was still waiting to get my Rover out of surgery (73 88 2 1/4). I got her back a couple of weeks ago and immediately took the wheels to sand blast/powder coat. While that was in process, I started working on some of the minor surgery related items I felt I could tackle. Below is a list of what the shop did and what I did, as well as what is still not working, not right, or even unknown. My local shop had the main priority of getting the engine running and bare minimal items for it to roll/drive. Part of this thread is I want to share my project with you all. The second half is that I am always looking for input or the knowledge I am lacking in certain areas. I will make multiple replies to this thread for different parts of the project. Key here is that this Rover sat in a garage for 20 years untouched (which was both good and bad). My grandfather bought this Landy around 1980 as a lakeside/farm use type vehicle. So no care was taken on road specific needs such as mirrors, speedo, seat belts, signal lights...you name it. So there was a lot of basic stuff required just to get off the ground. My goal is to return the Landy to a daily driver status to honor him and my cousin (both of which are passed). My cousin and I had great times driving this around when we were teenagers. Every time I get behind the wheel, the feel and the smell turns it into a time capsule.

    Performed by my local trustworthy shop:
    -Purged gas tank
    -New spark plugs
    -New carb
    -New clutch master cylinder one (original one missing)
    -Replace brake servo assembly
    -Replace Brake master cylinder
    -Replace radiator hoses
    -Replace heater control valve
    -Replace thermostat
    -Replace fuel lines
    -Replace starter motor
    -Replace heater hoses
    -Replace brake shoes / springs
    -Refurb all four corners (hub seals, axle shaft seals, etc)
    -Replace exhaust piping / muffler
    -All fluids
    -Replace battery

    Performed by me (after surgery exit):
    -Replace all four shocks (standard shocks)
    -Replace all four brake drums
    -Replace both rear check straps (one was already broken)
    -Rewired a new horn switch (not sure where that has gone bad...assumption is the wand)
    -Installed 3 point reel seat belt kits in front (some fabrication required)
    -Installed missing bolts for rear seat belts
    -Replaced indicator bulbs that were out
    -Replaced turn indicator flasher unit (switching the wand would have the lights come on, but stay on solid)
    -Send 5 wheels, lug nuts, and other odds and ends to powder coat (wheels to color RAL1015, lugs and other bits to gloss black)
    -Purchased 5 Firestone Destination M/T 235/75/15 (my Rover has 15" stock rims which seems to be the minority)
    -Drilled out a sheared off bolt in the hood (that is for the spare tire mount). Was unable to extract it.
    -Buffed out existing paint with compound (body is pretty rough, but looks way better than when I got it)

    Not working / next up
    -Tail lights...I somehow killed these while fixing the flasher relay in the dash...yaaahhh (fixed - broken wires out of RR frame)
    -Speedometer (obvious reason...no cable!) (found cable, but cable is broken. Need a new one!) Open issue
    -Find root cause of horn issue Open issue
    -Speedometer backlight is out (found ground wire disconnected from its ground connection...also fixed no interior light)
    -Interior light is out (see above)
    -Fabricate rear door interior panel (original one is pretty bad off)
    -Upgrade headlights to low amperage LED's Open upgrade
    -Hazard relay...currently I do not have hazards (hazards now working after new alternator and wiring)
    -Fabricate spare tire mount for bonnet (I assume my tire will not work with original kit (even if it did, the sheared off bolt in the port means I have to fabricate something) (completed...see in my subsequent posts)
    -Fully clean out cab and install some basic rubber floor mats to avoid further damage (I have a dog) Open upgrade
    -Rear door lock not working (both front doors working fine) Open issue
    -Window locks for rear windows (front work fine) Open issue
    -Multiple leaks (rear diff; back of tranny; sump) Open issue
    -Massive rust/material clogging up fuel filters (fuel tank was a rust bucket. Replaced with a new one along with a new sender and mounting hardware)
    -Charge light is lit all the time (alternator needed to be replaced and wiring was also replaced)

    Not working quite right...I assume...
    -Tranny pops out of 2nd gear; extremely difficult to downshift without grinding into any gear Open issue
    -Right front wheel has some friction (not fully free wheel). Not sure if 4x4 or hub related...I believe hub) Bearings were shot...LF was seized. RF was coming apart.
    -Doors close, but are not closed...well they are not flush to the body
    -Heater works, but when it is 20 degrees like it was today, I could not tell it was on. I am not expecting miracles, but I think it is not up to par as it was back in the day
    -Backfiring (with sudden loss of power, but returns to normal very fast). This is more noticeable when engine is cold. Open issue
    -Sponge brake pedal after the Rovers sits for a while. Must pump several times to get brake. Springs were incorrectly installed. This was fixed.
    -Front brakes have way too much drag on the drums (need to manually compress trailing shoe just to get drum on). Replaced flex hoses and bled MC. This was fixed, but is still be evaluated for long term.

    Questions
    -Why is the hazard relay / circuity not in the schematics? or am I reading it wrong?
    -How slow are your signal indicators...mine are mega slooooow (slow signals solved with new alternator and wiring)
    -Do you have to pump your brake pedal after the Rover has sat for a while to build pressure (found that the upper brake shoe spring was connected to both shoes. It should only be connected to the rear shoe and the front connects to the backing plate).
    -Is everyone double clutching? (not required for series 3)

    Additions
    -Side mirrors installed
    -Install tachometer (install in progress)
    -Fire extinguisher installed
    -Tool box with as many spare tools as possible (including Rover specific tools)
    -Low fuel light (install in progress)
    -Supplement fuse box (install in progress)
    -Under hood LED lighting (install in progress)

    The two pics below show the day I got it and then how it looks right now. I need to take some photos of all the installs I have done...I will add more in the coming days. Looking forward to any and all feedback!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20160828_144625.jpg 
Views:	333 
Size:	195.4 KB 
ID:	12129   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161216_153732.jpg 
Views:	363 
Size:	190.9 KB 
ID:	12128  
    Last edited by ninescorpions; 04-21-2017 at 09:30 PM.
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Before and after on the rims. I went around and around. Upgrade to 16"? Spray paint the 15"s? Powder Coat? What color code? I ended up powder coating my stock 15" with RAL1015. From what I can see, they are the only rims that do not have the slots in them. All 16" rims have ports of some sort. I wanted to stay stock...so there they are. Very happy with the results.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Some shots of the shocks, brake drums, and check straps before/after
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161205_122123.jpg 
Views:	257 
Size:	119.4 KB 
ID:	12134   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161209_141216.jpg 
Views:	257 
Size:	93.4 KB 
ID:	12135   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20161215_153402.jpg 
Views:	268 
Size:	125.7 KB 
ID:	12136  

    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    So here you can see how much of a difference made just using some buffing compound on the body panels. Far from great, but way better!
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Here is where the sheared off bolt is...there is only about an inch of bolt stuck in there (not protruding on either side). I already drilled a hole in it...it is one with the Rover now.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    235/75/15 Firestone Destination M/T
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Here she is in my garage during repairs.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    150

    Default

    Looks great so far. You've done lots of work. Did you buff it by hand or machine? Noticed the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound in the background.


    Colin

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Marblehead, MA
    Posts
    383

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ninescorpions View Post
    Questions
    -Why is the hazard relay / circuity not in the schematics? or am I reading it wrong?
    -How slow are your signal indicators...mine are mega slooooow
    -Do you have to pump your brake pedal after the Rover has sat for a while to build pressure (on-going discussion with my mechanic)
    -Is everyone double clutching?
    Great work so far! Truck looks fantastic and the patina/paint are perfect.

    Have you purchased the Green Bible? Also a parts catalog? Both are good to have on hand if you like to do your own work (which it looks like you do). Links to electronic versions: http://www.landroverweb.com/landrove...rover-manuals/

    The Hazard, Oil Pressure Gauge and Heater wiring schemas are not in the standard manuals as they are US spec/specific items. I think I've stumbled across wiring schemas for these but one way to get them is to find a copy of a US Spec Series 3 Owners Manual - the smaller book that originally came with your truck. There was usually a US supplement that had wiring schemas specific to this market. Someone here may have one and can take a picture of the pages you need. There is a topic on this here and here. Also - see image below (which is from an international site - it may help but might not be the same as the NADA setup).

    For the signal indicators, sounds like you may need a new flasher unit. It should be part number 502096 and Can be found here (it looks like our forum hosts do not carry). But double check here as I'm not entirely familiar with how the series 3 turn signal works.

    Regarding pumping the brakes - you should not have to do that. Generally it means you have a leak in the system or have air trapped in the brake circuit. Bleed your brakes using the process described in the workshop manual to get the air bubbles out. It takes a few people (one to pump the brake and the other to open/close the bleeder valve). There are other ways to do this solo if you search - but my guess is air trapped in the system still.

    With a Series 3 you should not need to double clutch. It's a fully synched gearbox. BUT, given that the truck sat for so long, it will take time for the gears to work back in and for the new oil fill to work around. Hopefully you drained and then filled the gearbox with new EP90 (see below). The best cure here is driving it. Double clutching won't hurt, while the gears wear back in.

    Given that your truck sat for 20 years (mine sat for about 18):
    - Look very hard at anything rubber and expect to replace it (you've tackled a lot already!). I'd replace the three flex hoses in your brake system as well. Two at front tires and one just before the rear diff.
    - Expect gaskets and seals to leak over time as lack of use will dry them up. Watch for leaks and trace them to their source. This will be a battle initially but you can track them down and stop (most) of them with patience.
    - Wiring gremlins will exist and you will need to chase them down. A multimeter is your friend. Consider replacing the voltage stabilizer with an electronic one. Consider using electronic ignition instead of points. Your side/front turn signals are missing. I think replacements can be found... My turn signal is pretty normal click, click.... click, click and not slow like you describe.
    - Drain and refill EVERYTHING (engine oil, gearbox, transfer case, diffs, steering box, steering relay, swivel balls, overdrive if you have one). Use good EP90. Don't just top off existing fluids. Especially true wth the radiator - flush it out a few times. Fill/drain/fill. Don't trust any existing fluids. Make sure you use DOT4 GLMA brake fluid.

    Some other things you point out:
    - The heaters in these trucks were not that effective to begin with. You could put a new matrix/core into the heater box - or pull the existing core out of the heater box and have a radiator shop recondition. I put a NOS core in mine and it made a difference - it puts out a LOT of heat now. As mentioned, completely flush the radiator system.
    - Shifting: You could (bigger project) pull the floor boards and transmission tunnel cover and check the detent balls and springs and also look at the reverse gate springs. The detent balls push into the gear selector shafts and stop the shifter at the right place for each gear. They may need lubrication and/or replacement. The reverse gate simply puts pressure on the stick when you shift in reverse. It uses two springs. All parts needed for this job are offered by our hosts - this is not a terribly difficult job beyond getting the floor board fixings to back off if they have not been in a while.
    - Right front wheel - friction could be the brake shoe. Have you tried backing off the brake adjuster bolt for that wheel? Friction causes heat - after driving feel around the tire bolts. Hot? Brake adjuster too tight. Feel the hub. Hot? Time to service the hub. Jacking up the one tire and spinning it can usually give you an audible clue as well.
    - My doors don't close flush either. Many other examples don't. Usually because a new rubber door seal has been installed and it may not leave enough room to close all the way so the PO adjusted the door latch out. You can adjust the door latch on the B-pillar and move it in to see if that helps.
    - That pie plate/hood spare mount. I'd drill out the 10 rivets and get a replacement. They can be found. Easy to pop-rivet back in a new one. You may be able to salvage it once it's out and more accessible. Either way, a Rover isn't a Rover without a tire on the hood :-)

    These trucks like to be driven - she'll wear back in with some good driving. Welcome to the club!

    P.S. Beautiful garage/barn you lucky dog.


    Warning - this image is from a non-NADA truck and may be different than your setup.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	hazzards.jpg 
Views:	414 
Size:	36.5 KB 
ID:	12142
    Last edited by lumpydog; 12-19-2016 at 08:46 AM.
    1968 Series IIa
    1997 Defender SW (Original Owner - Sold)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    92

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cnfowler View Post
    Looks great so far. You've done lots of work. Did you buff it by hand or machine? Noticed the Meguiar's Ultimate Compound in the background.


    Colin
    By hand...that Meguiars compound works very well (at least in my case).
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us