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Thread: My 73 Series 3 Project

  1. #91
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by lumpydog View Post
    Looks like I've hit my limit on uploading pictures in these forums... PM me your email address and I can send them.

    Rovers North - what's up with the cap on image uploads?

    [Edit] Here you go.
    Thanks for the help on the bearings!
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  2. #92

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    Looking at the photo, the boot at the rear of the cylinder seems to be out a lot more than the front, as if that piston is out. The pistons should float in the cylinder, so I'd try prying the rear shoes in toward the cylinder with a screwdriver between the lining and the lip on the backing plate. If there is no movement try opening the bleeder and trying again. If still no movement maybe the rear piston is seized....

  3. #93
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik88lr View Post
    Looking at the photo, the boot at the rear of the cylinder seems to be out a lot more than the front, as if that piston is out. The pistons should float in the cylinder, so I'd try prying the rear shoes in toward the cylinder with a screwdriver between the lining and the lip on the backing plate. If there is no movement try opening the bleeder and trying again. If still no movement maybe the rear piston is seized....
    Thanks for this tip. I did exactly that. With the bleed valve open, I forced in the shoe in turn pushing fluid out the bleeder. I did this a couple of times. This definitely got the shoe in further on the cylinder. On the last attempt, I had the drum in place (against the shoe). With the valve open...I pushed the shoe in and then pushed the drum over it and retightened the bleeder.

    This definitely got me "reassembled". I played with the brake adjuster a bit to get the least amount of friction from the trailing brake as I could (leading shoe out...trailing shoe in). But it is important to note that the trailing shoe is resting on the drum. And this is where my concern lies. I also fixed the placement of the upper springs on both rear brake assemblies (as suspected...they were also wrong). I put it all back together and fired it up. I took a 5 mile (round trip drive). Nice to get behind the wheel once in a while Once I got back, I check the hubs. Previously when the bearings were shot, the heat was focused on the warn hub...less on the wheel. In this case, I am getting heat through the wheel and less on the hub. This is indicating to me that 1. my new bears are so far so good 2. the amount of brake drag I have on the LF is too great.

    I will jack it up tomorrow and check the brake adjuster. How much heat is acceptable heat when it comes to brake drag? I hear a lot that a little brake friction is not a bag thing, but I am pretty sure my condition is over the limit.

    One other item to notate. The rear drums go on without a hitch. Meaning that the shoes are seated naturally far enough in that no monkey business is needed to get the drum on. I never get any heat signatures from the rear wheels or hubs. The condition exists on both fronts...so so on the RF and heavier on the LF.
    Last edited by ninescorpions; 03-08-2017 at 11:14 PM.
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  4. #94
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
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    Also wanted to mention that the bore size on my cylinders in the front are larger than the rear. And the rears are fitting perfect. Looking in the workshop manual, it shows that front and rear should have the same bore size on a S3. The shop I have the truck in replaced all four cylinders. Curious on this situation.
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

  5. #95

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    Quote Originally Posted by ninescorpions View Post
    Also wanted to mention that the bore size on my cylinders in the front are larger than the rear. And the rears are fitting perfect. Looking in the workshop manual, it shows that front and rear should have the same bore size on a S3. The shop I have the truck in replaced all four cylinders. Curious on this situation.
    Well, our hosts parts catalog shows different part number for each of the four cylinders, so I wouldn't think the front and rear are the same. If you come back from a test drive and find the brakes dragging I'd open a bleeder and see if there is pressure there, if releasing the pressure frees the brake(s). I've seen a maladjusted master cylinder push rod keep fluid from freely flowing back, and moisture in the brake fluid boiling and causing brakes to lock up until things cool down. There are all kinds of weird things that can happen, but the landy drum brakes overall are pretty simple to work on.

  6. #96
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    Sep 2016
    Location
    Virginia
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    Well after some down time and a lot of head scratching, I think we are back on track. Now we have replaced all brake components except for the hard lines. Last item replaced were the flex hoses. We bled the MC and then did the RF and LF, now things are working as expected (rears are perfect). I still have a little brake drag on the LF (with cam adjusted) and slightly more on the RF (cam also adjusted). I took it for a 5 mile drive, and the wheels/drums were luke warm. Unlike before where you could cook an egg on them. Hubs are also still cold...so bearings are doing their thing. I will take it on a longer drive to see how they do, but I think it will improve as it grinds a little bit off the new shoes. As long as it is not the surface of the sun, I hope they will wear in (reduce to nearly no drag).

    About to move to Seattle and will transport the Rover, so trying to get some of these items done and make it as ready to drive as possible for the move.
    Consecutive drives without breaking down: 3

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