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Thread: Clutch questions

  1. #11

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    As already suggested get a shop manual, possibly Haynes or preferably the Rover one . Extract from Owner's manual ( handbook) on bleeding the clutchClick image for larger version. 

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  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    11

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    well, I'm stumped on this one. I got in and cleaned everything up so it was like new to try and spot any leaks. unloaded about 3 cans of brake-clean and engine cleaner to freshen it up. Then I bled the clutch (thanks for the help on this one!) and it was a bit better, but still not great. So I checked any linkage underneath and it all looked ok from what I could tell. So now I'm thinking that the master or the slave one of the two is bad. the slave seems to connect ok on the last 20% of the pedal which makes me believe that air is still somehow in there, but I cleaned it, bled the line, ran it around about 50 miles, then looked for leaks and I can't spot any. The reservoir is still full. So i'm stumped. To make things worse, the gears used to connect but now they are "slipping" when I try and connect. So I'm thinking that maybe its something like a pressure plate or something like that actually on the clutch itself. Not sure if there is a way to test individual parts to see if they are working? My "system" has an issue but don't know how to troubleshoot at this point.
    Nick Hauck
    '69 S2A 88 RHD

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    chilliwack BC Canada
    Posts
    23

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    Best way to check if your clutch is slipping is to drive uphill in 4th gear and step on the gas hard. If the revs shoot up but you dont accelerate then time for a new clutch disc and pressure plate. Bleeding clutches can be tricky sometimes. Best to have someone depress clutch then close bleed screw before releasing. Repeat as long as it takes to get a good pedal making sure to top up the reservoir.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    11

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    ok, thank you for the tip! I will give it a try tomorrow! so my best guess is that I have multiple issues going on... I think I have a leak somewhere in the clutch hydraulic system AND also have the pressure plate / clutch issue.... the guy I bought the vehicle from did a bunch of work to get it cleaned up, but he did leave a bunch of original parts. The rear axles went out a few weeks ago on a trail ride, so guessing that this clutch is likely an original as well and in need of replacement. The slave and master cylinder however really perplex me because even after bleeding it I just can't seem to find any leaks. So not sure where my pressure is leaving the system. Wondering if there is a way to somehow check these components? Like a dye that you could add to the system that shows up under a blacklight maybe? Wondering if there are any good suggestions of ways to find the leak apart from replacing each component one by one.....
    Nick Hauck
    '69 S2A 88 RHD

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    chilliwack BC Canada
    Posts
    23

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    Inside the slave and master there are rubber cup shaped seals that push the fluid. It is possible the fluid is leaking past those seals so no pressure is built. Same idea behind a brake wheel cylinder.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    77

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    it can bypass (go from hi pressure area to low pressure area) in the master cylinder and you may not notice it till it starts coming out of the rear of the master cylinder (inside down the fire wall) .... in which case you'll be adding fluid too. if it bypasses at the slave cylinder then both sides of the slave cylinder will fill with fluid with the obvious result.
    if the wheel cylinders are leaking you'll eventually see it running out of the brake drum. ,
    my guess is you either have a heck of a lot of air in there (which isn't too hard to acomplish) or you are bypassing pressure at the pressure differential points.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Phoenix, AZ
    Posts
    11

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    ok, so happy to get this problem resolved! so the fix was there was a bolt on the master cylinder that connects to the pedal that had worked its way loose almost to the point it was falling off. After fixing this and putting the master cynlinder back together, it seems like its back to new again! Turns out the clutch "slipping" wasn't really an issue at all and seemed "tight" again after the fix. Going to watch it closely to make sure nothing is leaking. Seems ok now, but there was fluid loss before, so I think there still might be a leak somewhere. But its driving like a tank again, so very happy. Thank you so much for everyone that contributed to helping out! Could not have done it without the community support!

    very grateful,

    Nick
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nick Hauck
    '69 S2A 88 RHD

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    77

    Default

    in the future: since that resevour doesn't take much fluid you can run synthetic in it, it won't absorb moisture ........ at least use dot 4.
    and when you bleed it make sure you're on level ground ..... as per prior: if the slave leaks, it goes inside the bell housing and you'll have to undo the drain plug for the bell housing to get it out. This is something we all need to do as you get water and all manner of krap in there. I just leave mine out as the rear main leaks and the xmission ........ and and and !!

  9. #19

    Default

    If its a 2a the clutch slave is totally on the outside of the bell housing, so should be easy to check if its leaking. The S3 has the slave projecting into the bell housing & any leak from the seal will run inside .

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