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Thread: left or right exit exhaust

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
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    Default left or right exit exhaust

    on an 88 is there a difference as to which side your exhaust exits? i'm looking to replace mine and have seen this left exit option
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  2. #2
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    Oct 2006
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    Kingsport
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    Default

    The idea is that you want it exiting on the opposite side from the curb, so you don't fumigate any pedestrians. So in the UK on a RHD vehicle, the exhaust should ideally come out on the driver's side (the passenger side in the US). In the US on a LHD vehicle, it would also come out on the driver's side, towards traffic.

    The exhaust on both is the same until it reaches the muffler. On a RHD vehicle, the exhaust enters on the left side and exits on the right. However, on a LHD drive vehicle, this means that the exhaust enters the muffler on the left, then also exits on the left side, too...

    FWIW, I'm partial to have the exhaust flow through the muffler, instead of doubling back. If you often drive in town traffic past busy sidewalks, yeah, you'd be better off with the specific LHD version, but otherwise, the RHD version is a lot more common and close to half the price.

    Any particular reason you want a left-exit exhaust?
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  3. #3
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    Oct 2006
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    Default

    I too went with the RHD exhaust on my 88". But I did want to go LHD (would have had the prices been similar). I like having the exhaust where I can see and hear it. If there are any engine problems they can be easier to diagnose with the exhaust in sight.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  4. #4
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    Oct 2006
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    Default

    i presently have a right exit on my lhd. i've considered the left exit because there's a vendor out there that has a ss but only list the left exit. good point on being nice to peds and cyclist and good point on being able to better hear sounds of potential doom if it's exiting left. i don't think a doubleling back silencer would be much different performance wise than a through one because what appears to be a through isn't when you consider the overlap of the pipe in and the pipe out, right?
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  5. #5
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    North MS
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    Scott,

    That's a good point. It really depends on how the exhaust is built to deflect the gases as to whether or not it will be more restrictive. You'd have to cut it open to know for sure. Even some motorcycle mufflers that look like they are straight through, redirect the gas flow through the hollow outside of the pipe before returning to the center of the pipe. On an old Land Rover, exhaust restriction is going to be the least of your worries. Get the LHD exit if you want, it will work fine.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Holly Ridge, NC
    Posts
    621

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scott
    i've considered the left exit because there's a vendor out there that has a ss but only list the left exit.
    Who is the vendor? I am looking at replaceing my exhaust in the near future and looking at options. Got a header to glaspack right now, loud and obnoxious. I love it.
    First but gone: 91 3 door Disco "White Rhino"
    77 Series III 88 ex MoD "Shongololo"
    Gone and I miss her: 97 D1 5 speed
    04 DII
    08 D3 (LR3)

  7. #7
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    Oct 2006
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    Default

    our host has a kit as do a couple of the other rover web warehouses. i'm having one build locally. aluminum clad pipes and muffler with all the hangers intalled for $250. stainless steel would be nice but i'd have to do the install and i ain't got the time. i'm heading out to the stumps then back to the sand soon. the work is sheduled to happen friday. might actually be able to hear the radio now. thinking of going with a 2" instead of the 1 7/8. supposed to increase power at the high end but takes a little bit off the lower.
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

    Default NRP stainless

    For what it's worth, I bought the NRP stainless exhaust that our host sells for my 88 and aside from fitting issues, I love it. Seems to breath better and still has that series motor sound with a bit of attitude.

    That setup exits on the right (USA passenger side) of the truck and it certainly scares the heck out of pedestrians as well as drivers in the right hand lane who have their window open. You should see the looks on deceleration when you get the "brap brap... bang" out of it.
    Gotta love it.

    Unfortunately the hangers it came with are poorly designed and lasted about 500 miles in my case. Been using bailing wire ever since (about 20 or 30,000 miles I think). The shape of the system is a bit off too and it rubs on the front out rigger of the frame when my wire gets loose. Our hosts unfortunately couldn't give me much advice to fix it.

    Oh yeah and with my 33" MTs the pipe will get hung up when you are articulating on the trail or fully loaded. Smaller tires shouldn't have much trouble though.

    Thats all I gotta say about that.

    Cheers,
    Tim

  9. #9
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    North MS
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Smith
    Been using bailing wire ever since (about 20 or 30,000 miles I think).
    Bailing Wire?

    Welding stainless isn't that tough with a MIG, or as an alternative you could use the clamp-on exhaust hangers. They aren't expensive (not stainless though) and will last a long time (1/8" thick).
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

    -I used to know everything there was to know about Land Rovers; then I joined the RN Bulletin Board.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jp-
    Bailing Wire?

    Welding stainless isn't that tough with a MIG, or as an alternative you could use the clamp-on exhaust hangers. They aren't expensive (not stainless though) and will last a long time (1/8" thick).
    I know, I know. Unfortunately I've been swamped with my full time job and building my house which by the way is another full time job. Just don't have time to do things right, right now.

    I also don't have enough power at the site to run my mig on thicker metals. Still waiting for the electric to get approved at the site so till then I keep popping the breakers on my temporary power pole.

    Afraid I'm slowly working the lightweight into a full on mechanical restoration at the moment. The bailing wire is just the tip of the iceberg of stupid current owner fixes... Is that SCOF's?

    Luckily once the house is done, I'll have a nice garage to do the rebuild in.

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