carb vs ign

[jimrr]

driving home the other night my series 3 started bucking and back firing. with a mile to go it'd only idle and wouldn't make the last 100 yds. uphill to the driveway.
knowing my fuel pump has been minimal for 5 years I put a new one on. (forgot how involved that can be) result?: no help. I did a integrity test of the suction line and on into the tank, no suction leaks and i also pulled a gallon out of the tank with a vacume tank. I re-installed the pump thinking the actuator was on the wrong side of the arm (if possible?) fuel filter (oem 1973 ok) .....(thx, rovers north for having what I hope to be a ACd60 element?) eventually hooked a test light to the points wire at distributor.... it blinks steady on cranking and hooked it to the other side of the coil also with no current interruptions. ran engine on idle with what was in the float bowl with steady discharge from pump.
eventually ordered a new weber carb from our hosts and a few other things. sometimes your land rover just wants you to spend money on it, I also gave the valve cover nuts half a turn.
think it'll work??

[erik88lr]

I'm sure snugging down those valve cover nuts will correct the problem. The Landy just wanted some love.

[jimrr]

after 48 years i agree, sometimes you gotta give it some attention.

[vlad_d]

Good luck, @JimR! I know you won't regret the new carburator. Sometimes, even the Land Rover likes a bit of new, shiny under the hood! Also, it's neigh impossible to get all the channels and holes cleaned out and back to factory spec. A new carb just hits the reset button 40 years. Wish I could do the same for my body(;P)

Incidentally, if it turns out to be something with your points setup, I saw they sell these kits that convert the old Lucas points to electronic ignition. I don't know if our hosts sell this kit, but here is a link from roverparts:
https://www.roverparts.com/engine/ig...MaAlAAEALw_wcB

...in case you don't want to spring for a whole new dizzy...this is half the price and replaces the parts that go out more often than not.

[vlad_d]

Also, check that your distributer hold-down bolt isn't loose and/or off its timing.

And check the vaccuum advance tube for leaks. Spray some carb cleaner around the tube and listen if the idle goes up. If there's a leak, it will suck the extra carb cleaner and burn it like giving it gas. A tight fitting should do nothing when sprayed.

If it can't advance, the timing will be off/late. That might cause the weak engine and post-ignition?

[jimrr]

thx vlad, I think my series 2 has the electronic stuff. I am tempted to buy this for my series 3 but one bad experience with electronic and I insist on having a spare on board. At $145 + shipping it can wait!!! that'd be closer to $300 and if I didn't have the spare, or had to convert back to points in the field i'd never get over it.