Landy Girl 2.25L petrol engine Torque Settings

[landroverbrit]

TORQUE SETTINGS:
2.25L petrol engine:


Hey Landy lads, I'm putting together my first engine, out of a series IIA block 541874 head 525183. Never put an engine together before, but I have heard these engines like to leave a Picasso on the ground when they're parked up. I'd like to torque up as many nuts and bolts as possible, I don't know how tight I should go, I really don't want to strip any threads, or not tight enough so it leaks. I google torque specs, I go to the land rover forums, and I hear more about people stripping threads than the correct torque specs. I'm putting a list together to print out on a piece of paper and pin on my garage wall, if anyone can help with the torque specs with the following below, even if it's your own personal recommendation, it would be greatly appreciated. After I torque the nuts or bolts I plan to do a yellow dot. Cheers lads. -Landy girl




6 bolts oiler filler tube ???


2 hollow bolts oil tube from block to head ???


4 spark plugs to head ???


carburetor to manifold ???


2 oil filter bolts to engine ???


large bolt with rubber washer oil filter canister ???


2 starter motor nuts ???


12 transmission bel housing nuts to engine ???


Fuel pump to engine block ???


oil pan to engine block ???


7 bolts water pump ???


3 water pump bolts to head ???


Cylinder head: 65 FT. LBS.
Main bearing cap bolts: 85 ft. Lbs
Rod bolts: 35ft lbs for bolts with machined threads, 25 ft lbs for bolts with rolled threads
Rocker pedestals: 18 ft lbs.
Cam shaft gear bolts: 30 ft. lbs
Intake manifold to exhaust manifold: 17 ft lbs.
Intake and exhaust manifolds to cylinder head: 17 ft lbs.
Flywheel bolts: 60 to 65 ft. lbs
Crankshaft pulley bolt: 150 ft. lbs
Steel engine mounts to engine block: 80 lb. ft.
Clutch pressure plate: 22 to 25 ft lbs

[vlad_d]

Hello @landroverbrit!

I did what you probably did and looked in the Green Bible official repair manual and my Haynes repair manual for those torque specs. And, as you likely found out, the official manuals are sometimes cagey about any recommendations for some torque specs. You'll likely get anecdotal recommendations from here on. Here's mine:

Hand tight:
Many of these are just assumed to be "hand tight". What the hell does that mean? I remember when I first got a brand new torque wrench after doing some engine work for about 1-2 years and was horrified to see that what I was doing on my intake manifold bolts by hand was WAY TOO tight. For me, it just felt like anything I did with a 3/8" standard socket wrench could NEVER be as tight as my big ol' 1/2 inch drive, 2 foot long handle torque wrench. So the manual would call out 15-20 foot pounds and I could go way past that if I just put my back in to it. So, that was when I figured out what 10-15 foot pounds kind of feels like on my wrench. For me, it's grab the wrench handle so that my thumb is on the bolt and so I'm pushing about palm width away from the fulcrum and turn until I'm just uncomfortable. I heard someone jokingly say one it's "one grunt. You must have done two grunts...that's why it stripped". Thus is funny to me, but in a weird way true. Everyone's different, so you may find your hand strength will be different. So "hand tight" would seem to be a sliding scale. I guess in that situation, use leverage and your "hand tight" is higher up the handle on your tool. But it's still somewhere around 10-15 foot pounds or so. You can get the torque wrench out, or go by feel after a while. Although, if a manual says a given torque, I usually use the torque wrench so I can sleep at night. But if it doesn't specify, "hand tight" is assumed...at least if it's steel bolt into steel thread.

Unknown application/Comparative:
If you have an unknown application, you can get some assumptions going. Get one of those plastic or metal bolt gauges where you can quickly find the bolt thickness and thread pitch. Then, you can compare like bolts. Hardware manufacturers provide bolts by a given application and grade...so ALL 1/2" Grade 8 bolts have the same spec. So, if you have a manual telling you that is a 50 foot point torque setting. and you have another 1/2" grade 8 bolt elsewhere in the car...then that's the same torque, probably. Always go with the book, but if it doesn't say, you cam compare. Google the grades, but basically the higher they go, the more strength but more brittle. You can often tell grade by tick stripes on the top...3 ticks is grade 5, 5 ticks is grade 8. Most engine bolts are grade 8.

Bolt manufacturer's tables:
As another last resort, you can find tables from bolt manufacturers with their recommendations, based on the bolt size:
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...1ovBIKnsuL_eRT

Good luck! Forgive the spelling mistakes, I'm typing on a phone.

[jimrr]

well thank goodness for vlad !!!! , now ""landy girl""" if you're taking this upon yourself you have the right source here. Unfortunately it takes a while to get the info across but for my part i'd say the propper torque specs are not hard to find, the technique however ........... 30 wt oil on the journals and such is more involved. !!
Please don't be impatinent, consult here as you need and by all means, don't screw up a 2.5 litre engine !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
all the best,