68 series 2 rear hub needed

[spf720]

Like the title says I need a rear hub for a series 2. I have a broken stud on mine and the previous owner welded all of the lug studs in place. I can probably drill the broken one out but I would rather get another good hub. I have looked on line and can find 2A and 3 but nothing for the 2 including from Rovers North.

[roverp480]

According to my parts books there have been a number of supersessions on this part . The original number was 217423 , the same as Series one . This then was superseded by 571250 and later 561889 . These all have the BSF threaded studs. and covers from circa 1948 to 1970 ( Suffix G chassis number) , then the metric fixings came in at Series 2A Suffix H & S3. 561889 will most likely have the splined studs rather than screw in, as this proved to be a better arrangement as the screw in were prone to stripping the thread and as yours , then welded in as a fix. Series 2A vehicles started with a suffix A chassis number in 1962.
This advert shows the tracking of part numbers https://www.johnrichardssurplus.co.u...ed-561889.html

[spf720]

Thanks for that information. I have not been able to find any hub for a series 1 or 2. There are plenty for 70 forward but nothing for a 68. I was hoping someone on the forum might have a used one for sale.

[roverp480]

There are a number listed on Ebay if you want to go down that route, but I am surprised that RN don't list it. They are available in UK but shipping is obviously expensive due to its weight. It may be worth joining the LR Series 2 Forum in UK and ask if anyone in US has a spare ore knows of one. https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php

[jimrr]

just a thought but is there really a difference between a series 2 and a 2A for a hub? If I after one reading got the question wrong please ignore this!
On a sad note I know where a couple Rovers were buried, pto, xmission's , and gawd knows what all but the place is way up in the mountains of N idaho. The owner died young rock climbing and the family to move on buried a lot of his collections. I may yet some day re-discover this?

[spf720]

I do not see any on eBay in the USA. I see some for 2A and 3 but nothing for a 68. I am actually redoing a Reliant Regal Supervan as well and may go to the UK for needed parts. If I don’t find one I will pick it up when I visit the UK. I can run it with 4 lugs if needed until I can pick one up.

[spf720]

I really do not know what the difference is. I know they list the ones I see online as being for 70 and newer so I assume there is a difference or they would list them for the series 1 and 2.

[roverp480]

The 1970 on hubs will have metric M16 wheel studs . the rest is dimensionally the same as are the bearings, so it will fit , but you will then have odd nuts on one wheel.

[landyr]

I have a complete IIA hub assy (still on stub axle) on Ebay. Offers welcomed. It will fit a '68 truck as-is.

[vlad_d]

I find John Craddock's website useful for superceded part numbers ( like @roverp480 pointed out). For instance, you put in the LR part number you're looking for, and if the part number changed, you'll get a hit "Use part ______". So, you don't have to have all the Part manuals and supplemental. Check it out:

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/search/results.html?s=561889

Looks like that hub is not cheap!

P.A.Blanchard has one 1/2 that price:

https://pablanchard.co.uk/index.php?route=product/search&search=561889

Dumb question to the group:
At what point is an upgrade out of the question?
Like, if a period 2a hub costs $279...but a later S3 hub costs $80...I mean you could get all 4 for $320?

There's a kit here with new bearings and all:

https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/da1388-series-2a3-from-1968-upto-sept-1980-hub-and-bearing-kit.html

I don't know. It's in the ball-park, after you factor in new bearings(you're not going to drive out your old bearing races and re-use them...so, you're looking at +$30 for new oil seal and bearings), shipping, etc. Plus you get all new hubs? Smooth rollin!

International shipping ain't that bad. They use DHL Air freight, so it comes fast and seems to be offset by the cost saved off the part ($$$$$part on Atlantic US coast + $ shipping VS $$ part in UK + $$ Shipping). I find US suppliers cost twice as much for the part. Like, throw away an extra $150 for the privilege of $20 truck shipping. Makes no sense...often they don't have the part in stock and have to "drop ship" it from the UK anyway. So...what exactly am I paying for? I dunno...support your local business, I guess...

[nantley79]

Resurrecting an old thread here. I’ve got two different rear hubs to rebuild and I’d like to stick with original. One has gussets on the inside the other is smooth casting. I’m referring to the inside outer face of the hub that rides between the brake pads.

Both are off a ‘65. Is one early s2 and the other S2A?

[siiirhd88]

The 1961 model year was the changeover from Series 2 to 2A, so if your truck is a 1968 model year it will be a Series 2A. There were many changes over the production years for the Series 2A, with the major changes indicated by the different Suffix letters. I have typically swapped out the screw-in stud hubs for the late S2A or early S3 hubs with the larger and stronger metric splined studs.

Bob