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Thread: Looking for a Series 3 gearbox, LT76, preferably a later one

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
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    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    221

    Default Looking for a Series 3 gearbox, LT76, preferably a later one

    Okay, I'm trying something out.

    Folks here have been telling me I need to put the feelers out to find a good deal. So, here goes...

    My next project is a gearbox. I've got no one local who can do it...they all send it out, anyway. So, I'm in the market for a Series 3 gearbox. I want a standard LT76, preferably a later (suffix "D"?) as I've been reading these are more robust. But honestly, I just want "of equal or better quality" as I've got. I don't need a tank gearbox...and I'm not cutting up and re-welding to shoehorn in a later gearbox. Just stock part swapping.

    It needs to be 100% rebuilt, and under the $3700 our hosts are asking. I don't need a lifetime warranty. But I'm not spending $2k-$4k and a month later I get weird noises or grinding. It needs to be professionally built, with proper endplay, etc. No backyard mechanic. I want it from a reputable shop.

    Any leads would be much appreciated.
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    1973 Series 3, 109

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    304

    Default

    it's been 13 days for you and no responses so I thought I'd tell you I know where a bunch of landrover parts are buried in a canyon just across the border in Idaho. The young person who owned all this was killed in a rock climbing accident when he was about 20 years old and the distressed family buried a lot of his stuff. parts, pto, xmissions etc. , one day I hope to pursue this story.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    SF Bay Area
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    Default

    Thanks @JimR. I'm not quite ready to go digging up buried treasure ;P

    Wow, been doing some reconnaissance. John Craddock was asking about 1800GBP(about $2300), which sounded like a good deal. But I emailed them and they had a supplier that no longer does it. So they can't sell me one. Their website still has the item, but they're not filling orders.

    Our hosts send out to a supplier in the UK. There is a waiting list about 6 people long, and the lead time is about 4 months.

    A local LR 4x4 shop is willing to do it for $180 hour...but it's like indefinite time. That's going to add up, quick.

    So, I looked on ebay and found a local guy selling a gearbox case (suffix A, turns out mine is a suffix A, too)for $70 in good condition. All the bits are still available for sale. So, I guess I'm going to build a new one myself. I'm picking the gearbox case (suffix A) tomorrow.

    My plan is to take my time and build it on the bench, in no hurry. My current gearbox still works, and is drivable. I'm hoping to build out the new one, and then just spend a weekend doing the swap...to minimize down time. Thing I was affraid of was pulling the old gearbox and laying up the Series in the front yard indefinitely. Maybe I'll take some pics along the way and post here. I can't tell if people enjoy that or hate it. But maybe it helps someone landing on this thread in the future. Wish me luck!
    ...┌───────┬──,,
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    ...d ..__ ......... |... | ..__....p
    └/ | \────┴──┴/ | \─┘≡
    ..../..@........................@

    1973 Series 3, 109

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    304

    Default

    i have been thru mine two or 3 times. syncros never seem to last!! I guess there are land rover bone yards far off the beaten path in africa with valuable parts and options there. no doubt salvaged a lot but ............. one would have to go there and spend a few months filling shipping containers !!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    SF Bay Area
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    Default

    Seems alot of the parts are still available, with some exception. The main casing being one of them. Since I'm building one from scratch, I'll use this post to keep updated about parts availability and the build(not really a rebuild anymore).

    Week#1:
    I picked up the casing from about 1.5 hours away. It's an "A" suffix gearbox casing. It was a bit grimy, so I used a wire brush and then SimpleGreen and hot water to clean it up. Pics attached. It came out pretty clean. I don't have a parts washer, so I'll probably do this for the other old parts.
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    Gearbox Suffixes:
    So, I'll need to buy or source parts for this new gearbox. They made changes over the years...so getting the right parts will be key. I'm learning as I go, so I thought I'd share the process. Maybe you know this stuff, maybe not...maybe it's fun just to go through it with me. Turns out, there are 4 "Suffixes" letters stamped on the outside of the box to identify it: A, B, C, D. The LT76 stands for "Leyland Transmission" and 76 is the distance between the two geared shafts (on center). So, right off the bat...lots of interchange possible. I think the tricky bit is identifying your innards, because some Searies 2,2a boxes didn't have synchros on 1st + 2nd and later suffixes used different gears plated specially that can't be used with earlier parts. But I'm sourcing all new parts, so I'll try to pick the right ones.

    Finding the serial number and Suffix:
    There are lots of numbers and letters stamped on the gearbox. But the ones you're looking for are on the top, back-right...on the removable housing that holds the shifter shafts. This is not to be confused with the big "A" on the right side, next to the Leyland logo. Also, the whole assembly of 1)gearbox, 2)transfer case and 3)output are three parts with their own serial numbers. You want just the gearbox. See pics.The Suffix is the letter just above the serial number. Luckily, you can just see it with the center seat/cubby panel removed.

    Decoding the Serial number and Suffix
    I scanned in a page from James Taylor's book, about gearboxes. This is a great resource for numbers and specs.See pics.

    The "new" gearbox housing I have is a basic Suffix "A". Great!

    As a fun fact, I looked up the one in the truck. Turns out it's a Suffix "B" and the 951 serial number shows it came out of a Military/Lightweight Land Rover. Hmm. Two things about that:

    1) There are other signs my frame and differential are off an Ex-MOD Landy. The Salsbury rear diff has white "convoy" paint on the back cover. And the bumpers have J.A.T.E. shackle mounts on them. The gearbox is another nail in the coffin. I think someone replaced the rolling chassis on my S3. Also, the front-right spring hanger (the one with the VIN) was swapped...likey to register it under the same VIN.Hmm. Well, I'm all legally registered and papered, so I won't worry about it. But fun car history. I'm sure each Landy has a story or two.

    2) The second result of this is that I might not have been ordering the right parts if I just assumed it was original. I have the parts book, and using part numbers from there. I might have assumed 1973, when that gearbox came out in 1977. So, I guess the moral is, check serial numbers, because previous owners swap stuff all the time.

    It turns out the Suffix "A" box is more accurate for my year. But I had a mini mental crisis about what to do with the existing Suffix "B" in my car? It's actually the better gearbox. Looking into it, I guess the only difference is a stronger Reverse. I guess they improved the design on the Suffix "B" to better engage reverse. Since most people have their hand on the stick as they reverse, I'm not worried about it popping out. Let me know if any of you guys experience this with a working Suffix "A" LT76.

    So, I'll finish the Suffix A build and swap them...maybe rebuild the Suffix B later and keep it or sell it. A used gearbox seems to be worth $100 core, and $3600 rebuilt. So, I'll not let it go without a profit. The math is just weird.

    So, I ordered the first bit of parts - for the exterior. Bell Housing, front cover, seals and bolts. All of which are still available new. Part numbers and links in this spreadsheet:

    https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...t?usp=drivesdk
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    ..../..@........................@

    1973 Series 3, 109

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    UK
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    214

    Default

    Looks to be an interesting project. I am not sure if I a reading your spreadsheet correctly, but are you planning to use a 2A bell housing, as it isn't suitable for the S3 clutch release mechanism. the two are significantly different ? S2A suffix B onwards is 556044 and S3 is 576714

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    SF Bay Area
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    Default

    Advice and ideas like this are great. Keep them coming. I'd love to find out stuff sooner rather than later. Thanks @Rover480.

    So, since last week I got the Bell Housing in the mail. I ordered one off ebay because it was about $130 cheaper than the new one(plus shipping was cheap, only shipping from SoCal). It arrived and I used some paint thinner and a wire brush to clean it up, again. Then dry fit to the gearbox to confirm. To be honest, it was a gamble, because it didn't have a Land Rover part number. I had to use photos of it and guess. But I lucked out and it fits great.

    I have the S3 Parts Manual, and here's the page from the gearbox section.(See attached) . Looks like you are correct, the one for the S3 is 576714. I also attached a pic of the bell Housing for comparison. It looks identical, except for an access hole on the left side of this view. Bolt holes seem to line up with the gearbox case. I haven't received the front cover yet. I'm hoping that matches, and I think it will because they will be part # matched for S3.

    To be honest, I don't really know if the gearbox case is from a 2a. I have the part number and Suffix. That tells me it's an LT76 suffix "A", but not what it came out of. The guy I bought it off had a nice Dormobile 2a out front and he said the gearbox came from a 2a. But, you know, he could have had the same thought going on as me and my S3: some prior owner swapping out parts. So, I can't confirm if it came from a 2a. Anyone else can from the serial number?

    Luckily, it seems to bolt all together. So the build is still on(whew!).
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    ...┌───────┬──,,
    ...|______OD__|__\\_____
    ...d ..__ ......... |... | ..__....p
    └/ | \────┴──┴/ | \─┘≡
    ..../..@........................@

    1973 Series 3, 109

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    221

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    I had a though that I can't quite shake. Maybe someone on the forum can answer this one:

    Seems the gearbox Suffixes tell you about the innards. I imagine no one is getting out detailed blueprints to identify the reverse mechanism from a Suffix A from the one in Suffix B. Or, no one is trying to mix and match plated gears from a Siffix D with non-plated Suffix A/B/C. So, the Suffix tells you what's inside....but the spacing of the bearing journals on the case is the same? So, to my thinking, if you wanted to put 100% Suffix D parts into a Suffix A case...it would work? Can anyone confirm this thought experiment?

    I mean, it would screw over the next guy trying to identify the parts. But, if I'm buying 100% new parts in there...why not benefit from the latest design fixes over the years and get a stronger overall gearbox? Would that be unethical? I could put a metal tag on the gearbox with notes or something. As opposed to just putting in the inferior reverse gear just because it matches the "A" stamp on the outside of the case?

    What do you folks think?
    ...┌───────┬──,,
    ...|______OD__|__\\_____
    ...d ..__ ......... |... | ..__....p
    └/ | \────┴──┴/ | \─┘≡
    ..../..@........................@

    1973 Series 3, 109

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    214

    Default

    I havnt any parts in front of me but the series 3 bell housing has an extra aperture for the clutch release lever and attaching the hydraulic slave cylinder . See attached picture I lifted off Ebay
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    Regarding your question regarding reverse gear etc. and Suffix letters. A number of the parts are not interchangeable between suffixes. but some are. I don't have any info as to which parts can go together. Theoretically if the casing part number stays the same one should be able to fit any set of matched parts inside . I say theoretically , having worked for Land Rover, as I have come across parts that haven't followed the part numbering system correctly. Personally I would go for getting all the correct parts for the suffix letter on your main casing .

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2021
    Location
    SF Bay Area
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    I will have to check what's on my truck now. The plot thickens...

    Also. I don't know why am I so excited by a pic of a rusty transmission on a pallet in the woods ..but I am. Its a disease...
    ...┌───────┬──,,
    ...|______OD__|__\\_____
    ...d ..__ ......... |... | ..__....p
    └/ | \────┴──┴/ | \─┘≡
    ..../..@........................@

    1973 Series 3, 109

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