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Thread: III stalls and revs then dies

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Mountains of Western Pennsy.
    Posts
    582

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    I have a gauge that tests both vacuum and fuel pressure (Sears), but it's probably at least 55 years old (got it when I was 15 for working on my '57 Buick hot rod). Perhaps they still make such a thing.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    300

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    Quote Originally Posted by NickDawson View Post
    Thanks yall!
    I've been moving into a new house which means that my Rover is both my workhorse and that I haven't had any time to dig in to the issues. It has made for a little bit of a stressful week driving back and forth between houses and hoping this thing keeps running.

    I fiddled with the timing a bit and —perhaps coincidently —the rev/stall cycle has gone away.

    I still have the most persisting issue which is when I first depress the gas, the engine wants to stall. I have to floor it and get the engine revving to keep it from stalling out. I took the air filter off and opened the throttle manually at the carb. At that early moment (when the gas would be initially depressed), I hear a massive sucking sound and the engine tries to die. If I go past that point, it revs back up.

    I have a mostly useless vacuum gauge on my dash and it seems to be living in the "poor" range on the dial rather than the normal drive or idle. That said, I'm not sure we should take that to mean anything.

    Lastly, I remember this happening 10-15 years ago and I'm fairly sure the culprit was points and condenser. I'm inclined to start there since it is the cheapest thing to test

    If I go the route of checking fuel pressure and vacuum, what's the best approach? Assume those are separate instruments?
    again, unaccounted for rpm changes can usually be attributed to carb issues. As previously mentioned timing advance/retard can do this quite effectivly !!. . trust your guages ..... if your vacume indicates low figure that one out !! ...... especially if it's verified or a good guage like a smiths or something.
    keep us informed

  3. #13

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    Look down the throat of your carb while the engine is running and blip the throttle linkage. Does the carb's accelerator pump squirt some fuel or does it not and as a result the engine RPM drops and/or it backfires in your face?

    My original Zenith carb had this problem, and the replacement Chinese Zenith knockoff developed it too. Installing the single bore Weber cured the problem and the truck no longer stalls when I try to pull into the intersection from a red light turning green.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    212

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    Quote Originally Posted by NickDawson View Post
    Thanks yall!
    I've been moving into a new house which means that my Rover is both my workhorse and that I haven't had any time to dig in to the issues. It has made for a little bit of a stressful week driving back and forth between houses and hoping this thing keeps running.

    I fiddled with the timing a bit and —perhaps coincidently —the rev/stall cycle has gone away.

    I still have the most persisting issue which is when I first depress the gas, the engine wants to stall. I have to floor it and get the engine revving to keep it from stalling out. I took the air filter off and opened the throttle manually at the carb. At that early moment (when the gas would be initially depressed), I hear a massive sucking sound and the engine tries to die. If I go past that point, it revs back up.

    I have a mostly useless vacuum gauge on my dash and it seems to be living in the "poor" range on the dial rather than the normal drive or idle. That said, I'm not sure we should take that to mean anything.

    Lastly, I remember this happening 10-15 years ago and I'm fairly sure the culprit was points and condenser. I'm inclined to start there since it is the cheapest thing to test

    If I go the route of checking fuel pressure and vacuum, what's the best approach? Assume those are separate instruments?
    I had very similar symptoms with faulty fuel. I spent ages checking carb. distributer etc. then had to fill with fresh fuel, problem solved . Does it continue the same after fill ups?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bozeman MT
    Posts
    703

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    Quick update on this thread....
    I can't believe I missed it, but I finally (with some help of a 2nd set of eyes) noticed a pretty massive fuel leak coming from the outlet of the pump. A few turns of a wrench and it went away. That really helped the reving symptoms. I also discovered a hole in the boot that connects the vacuum advance to the carb and I repaired it with Sugru. The engine needs to be timed before it will run well... but the starter died during all that cranking when it died. So now I'm waiting on a replacement.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    300

    Default

    stabbing the gas and having a duuhhhh moment is usually the power piston (aka accelerator pump) ........... followed by timing.
    good you spotted the fuel leak but the power piston will initalize the rpm jump and whats in the float bowl will run it till a lack of supply catches up ..... IE' your leaking fuel line from the pump.
    sounds like you have a handle on it?

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