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Thread: Series 2A - Distributor Cap Problems?

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  1. #1

    Default Series 2A - Distributor Cap Problems?

    Hi all, Towards the end of last year I purchase a 66 Series 2A 88 and have been working since on repairs since it had been sitting for 15-20 years. Iíve just gotten to a point where Iím ready to see if I can get it running, but am battling a no spark issue. Iíve replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotor, condenser, and cleaned the points. I can see spark at the points when turning the motor over with the starter and a nice big spark from the king lead when grounded. Itís making it this far, but not getting to the new spark plugs. Iíve double checked the wire connections and all are tight. Iím wondering if there is some fitment problem with the new cap I purchased? When I purchased the vehicle it still had the wires and cap with the threaded ďacornĒ nuts. The folks here at Rovers North recommended the new push in style cap and wires. Iím not sure what else to checkÖ Has anyone ran into this issue before? FYI the distributor is the original Lucas 25d. Thanks.

  2. #2

    Default

    Could it be that you're running new new style dist cap with the old style rotor?

    Rotor Arm 4 Cylinder Early Series IIA & III
    RN Model #: PLE633

    Rotor Arm New Type -Lucas
    RN Model #: PLE634

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks for the suggestion - that is a good thought. I just checked the part numbers I ordered and they are:

    ROTOR ARM 4 CYL EARLY SERIES IIA & III PLE633
    DISTRIBUTOR CAP 4 CYL EARLY LUCAS TYPE PLC437

    Do you know if this is the correct combination?

  4. #4

    Default

    <quote>
    Thanks for the suggestion - that is a good thought. I just checked the part numbers I ordered and they are:

    ROTOR ARM 4 CYL EARLY SERIES IIA & III PLE633
    DISTRIBUTOR CAP 4 CYL EARLY LUCAS TYPE PLC437

    Do you know if this is the correct combination? </quote>

    I believe that's the correct combination.
    see https://www.roversnorth.com/category...a_iii_ignition for handy drawings.
    cap and rotors #4 and #5 go together, as do #11 and #13. Translation to part numbers lower down on page.

  5. #5

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    I believe I may have tracked this issue down to being caused by a defective cap. I confirmed the carbon pin is making contact with the rotor using some lipstick, and also did a continuity test between the carbon pin and the center tower of the top of the cap. There was no continuity until I pressed the carbon pin upwards probably a half of an inch. It seems to me there should be continuity at all time, not only when the pin is being pushed up by the rotor. I am guessing the rotor may not be pressing the carbon pin high enough in the cap to complete the connection. I'm going to see if I can get a replacement... Thanks for the suggestions.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Location
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    Modern reproduction ignition parts sometimes have inferior materials which will short out , especially rotors , so I would try refitting your old items if you still have them . The new parts you ordered should work together. Have you got the correct points . I am wondering if its possible that the points are opening when the rotor isn't lined up with the contact in the cap, its unlikely but worth a check. Have you got the basic ignition timing set correctly?

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks very much for your suggestions. I did notice that the replacement cap I got had a lot of plastic left over from the molding process which was covering up some of the metal contacts inside. I had to trim some of that off. I still have the old parts, but I cannot use the old cap, as it takes the old style screw-in wires, which I don't have. I never replaced the points, just cleaned them, but they look to be in good shape.

    I think I will get some lipstick or something similar to check and make sure that the carbon contact pin in the cap is making contact with the rotor, and will also check the static timing and points gap. Hopefully after that the issue will become clear.

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