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Thread: Ignition Coil Replacement

  1. #1

    Default Ignition Coil Replacement

    Hi all,

    My ignition coil seems to be gone. The ohm readings for the primary resistance cannot hold at the proper spec for the coil on my petrol 2a. New one in the mail.

    The coil on my 2a is a BERU ZS 172 coil. Online searches say this it a "heavy-duty, high-energy coil," that is suited for 4 and 6 cylinder engines. It also says they produce a "strong, blue spark," suited for electronic ignitions (which also came with the Rover).


    My question is this:

    Should I go with a Lucas or similar coil to replace it, or would this coil be suited just fine for my engine? I had no issues with poor running conditions before it gave up.

    Ive been down a few rabbit holes for cars and old Brit bikes repair, but not ignition coil specs. I don't want to fry my IGN, but I don't want to under power it either.

  2. #2

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    The original lucas coils were internally "resisted" and this type is the only correct one. If you buy an aftermarket coil i recommend u ask the store if they have that kind of coil [internally "resisted"] if all the have is an externally ballasted coil then you'll want to but a ballast resistor that's compatible with that coil. Your engine will run with an externally ballasted coil but it won't be long before your points rubbing block will melt

  3. #3

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    The points have been changed to electronic ign. and it runs an alternator now (neg earth).

    Ran completely fine for a year.

  4. #4

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    If you know the electronic ignition manufacturer I'd check with them as they usually provide the specs for a matching coil. The normal British points type ignition coil is a Lucas DLB101 which has 3.0 ohms internal resistance. The BERU ZS 172 has 3.3 ohms resistance and is a typical replacement for the Lucas coil.

    Bob

  5. #5

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    Latest update,

    I've gone ahead and put in a new distributor cap, rotor cap, plug leads, NGK plugs and checked the module from the coil to inside the distributor has no exposed wires to cause any shorts (as that was an earlier problem). So pretty much everything new from the plug to the coil.

    Still have the same issue. Have fuel, engine cranks...nothing.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    313

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WineCountryRover View Post
    Latest update,

    I've gone ahead and put in a new distributor cap, rotor cap, plug leads, NGK plugs and checked the module from the coil to inside the distributor has no exposed wires to cause any shorts (as that was an earlier problem). So pretty much everything new from the plug to the coil.

    Still have the same issue. Have fuel, engine cranks...nothing.
    Do you get a spark on a plug if you crank with plug connected to a lead , outside the cylinder . ? I wonder if the module in the distributor is fried as you mention there were shorts .

  7. #7

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    That's my idea at this point. I think a wire came undone. Won't know til I have an extra hand to hit the starter button.

    But I verified that there's power up to the coil with the ign on.

  8. #8

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    To anyone reading this post at a later time for a solution and/or closure: I took it to a British shop (which apparently was only a mile from my house) and they swapped in a new electronic ignition distributor. The electric module in the dizzy was bad. As there's not much to do, out it went.

    But still have the housing and everything if I decide to rebuild the internals at another time.

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