Discovery I Brake Job

[bblake12]

I am tempted to replace the front and rear rotors on my 1997 Discovery. This might seem simple to some of you but I am not a mechanic and I am a little unsure but it appears to be pretty straightforward. I have replaced the pads once but not the rotors.

A couple of questions -

1. Is this an afternoon job for a first timer ?
2. Other than socket wrenches, are there any specialized tools I need ?
3. I know that one of my front calipers is possibly seized, should I attempt a rebuild or replace ?
4. Does anyone have any photo's of this type of job ?
5. I have a 1997 Disco with the advanced evap system if that makes a difference

Any information would be appreciated

Bryan Blake

[Mike Koch]

Greetings,

Good questions!

First, you'll need a hub nut tool(2 1/16" socket). Rovers North sells this under part number RNF406.

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-6608-hub-nut-tool-2-116-stamped-steel.aspx

When the rotors are replaced, you'll need new hub seals b/c I have yet to remove an old hub seal from a rotor without damaging it. Rovers North sells them in a kit under part number RNK5623(you'll need one per wheel).

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5565-hub-seal-kit-93-onward-rr-defender-discovery.aspx

While you're in there, you'll have the opportunity to clean your wheel bearings and repack them with grease. If they are worn out, now is a opportune time to replace them. Rovers North sells them under part number RNH003(you'll need two per wheel).

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-5863-bearing-hub-90110-rr.aspx

In terms of rebuilding vs. replacing calipers, I prefer to replace them from a time perspective, but it's entirely up to you and the condition of your current calipers.

Owning a Discovery I with the advanced evaporative loss system will not affect replacing the rotors and pads.

Hope this helps,

Mike Koch

[graniterover]

1. Is this an afternoon job for a first timer ?

A long afternoon.

2. Other than socket wrenches, are there any specialized tools I need ?

Hub socket. I'm sure RN has one if you call.

3. I know that one of my front calipers is possibly seized, should I attempt a rebuild or replace ?

Replace. At least I would. If it's seized it's likely due to a corroded piston. Easier to just replace.

4. Does anyone have any photo's of this type of job ?

Try discoweb.

5. I have a 1997 Disco with the advanced evap system if that makes a difference

I did mine and I have no idea wha the 'advanced evap system is'.

The rotors don't just come off, they are bolted to another piece, so it takes a while to get them off. It's not hard, but not quick.

I think if you call RN they'll tell you what you need.

When you push the pistons in on the caliper when you put the new pads and rotors on, make sure you have removed a bit of fluid from the brake res. I put a rag around it as well so it doens't get everywhere if I don't take enough fluid out.

[Leslie]

I'd allot a full Saturday for your first time.... after being familiar with it, and afternoon would be okay. It'd be a good idea to have someone w/ you that's done it before.

I'd highly suggest a hub-nut socket. It can be done w/o, w/ say, channel-locks, but you'll be marring the nuts a bit unnecessarily... using the right tool always makes the job go better.

Once you get the rotor/hub assembly off, and you have the old rotor removed and ready to put back on, it helps if you use the bolts as guides... place the rotor and hub gently together, put the bolts in, then tap the two back together... the bolts will keep the holes aligned. (Just one of those things that wasn't in the instructions, that once someone showed me that, it made it go so much easier.)

[landi41]

Actually it's a bitch of a job first time out........
i don't recall anyone mentioning the 12 point socket required to un-bolt the calipers, sorry i dont remember the size.......

As for the "seized" caliper you can rebuild them (cheaper) , i'm sure our host has the parts......

[bblake12]

Guys, thanks for the quick follow-up. I am going to do this soon so I will keep you posted on my progress. I really appreciate all the hints and information.

Thanks,

Bryan

[BarryO]

1. Is this an afternoon job for a first timer ?

IMHO, not for a first timer. Allocate one afternoon for front, one for back.

In order to replace the rotors, you need to:

-remove calipers,
-remove hub,
-remove hub from rotor, install new one,
-clean and repack, or maybe replace, wheel bearings,
-reinstall hub,
-adjust bearings,
-reinstall calipers w. new pads.

Make sure you have the manual. I found this page helpful the first time I did it: http://www.d-90.com/tech/bearing.html

If re-using the bearings, clean off off the old grease, and pack new grease into all the nooks and crannies in the bearings. I found this takes longer than you think it's going to.

[J!m]

i don't recall anyone mentioning the 12 point socket required to un-bolt the calipers, sorry i dont remember the size...

I think its a 13mm 12-point socket. Get a good quality one too, because if the caliper is seised, most likely you will need lots of torque, heat and a large helping of luck on those caliper bolts to get them apart... You may want to go ahead and order new bolts. You can always send them back if you don't need them. Plenty of Never-Seez (the copper stuff) on the threads and shank of the caliper bolts too, so next time it actually comes apart for you...

[landi41]

Like the sailor who peed into the wind It all comes back to me now......
to remove the rotor from the hub....use the road wheel as your vise invert the wheel and set the hub into it just as it would be on the truck, this vise will hold the hub while you unbolt the disc........ worked for me on a 110 brake job....

[Matthew Lutz]

I discovered that the Hub/Disc bolts were 14mm 12point.

The 5 bolts that hold the ABS sensor(?) to the hub were shot on mine. Someone before me stripped them round. I had to chisel the heads off, run to the hardware store, etc.

Also of note, I ordered my rotors from Rovers North. They packed the rotors with what looked like the leftover cardboard remains of strapping tape to keep the rotors from banging around in the box - the rigid cardboard cylinder that the tape is wound around. Anyway, those cardboard cylinders were the perfect size for helping press-fit the inner hub seal into the hub! Coincidence, I think not.