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Thread: oil problem

  1. #11

    Default skarvo's oil problem

    We decided to drop the oil pan and check the sump and the screen. Sure enough this fixed the problem but now i have a heating problem that i've posted, replaced the thermostat as it seemed to be stuck open. worked for a day and now my temp gauge is finally working and being steady but i lost my heat. thermostat is opening and closing like it should now but lost my heat, ice cold, today.??????????????

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    8

    Default Dirty screen and sump

    Glad to hear your oil problem is solved. Mine is too - and it was also a dirty screen on the oil pick-up. Apparently these engines can sludge-up, and the screen clogs. The solution is to drop the pan, wash it out and clean the screen.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    57

    Default Cheap lifters

    On a related topic, if you do a top end overhaul(ie valve job, valve seals, have the heads cleaned thoroughly) and you find your cam lobes look like crap and are looking at a cam change(typical problem, a lot of the first owners of these cars where soccer mommies with no idea what an oil service was), you can save some money on new lifters from NAPA. I will have to dig in my boxes of crap, but the Napa lifter for a 63-65 Buick engine are identical(Remember this is a GM engine from early 60's). I will try to get the part number and post. But if you take a lifter out and go to NAPA, and order one in(they had one instock the first time I did this!!) you will find they are identical(yes I measured them too with calipers/mic etc). They where like $4.00 each at the time. I used these in my sons RR, my RR, and my wifes Disco. Always put some assembly lube on all contact surfaces(cam side and push rod side of lifter/rocker arms) when reassembling so no wear on first start up. Nothing will wake up a high mileage RR or Disco 1 better than a top end overhaul!! Some of these engines are truly frightening upon removal of the valleypan gasket(the big black gasket below the intake). I have removed POUNDS of sludge from cars before(you couldnt even see the lifters/pushrods/cam in one I did). This may sound crude, but these engines are very tough old things: I have stripped down to bare shortblock(ie take off heads, intake etc), removed oil pan(and the 10 pounds of sludge there too), high pressure cleaned the engine internally, externally, blown out with high pressure air, allow to dry(spray all with WD-40 to prevent rust, put it all back together and presto, a damn near new enginefor cheap. Do an oil change after 500 miles after reassembly to remove all of the assembly lube and sludge that was left. (YES I KNOW SOME OF YOU WILL CRY ON THIS TECHNIQUE, BUT IV'E DONE THIS FOR SEVERAL FOLKS WHO DIDNT HAVE THE MONEY FOR A NEW ENGINE AND ALL OF THESE CARS ARE STILL GOING BETTER THAT WHEN MUFFY THE LAWYERS WIFE OWNED IT!!). Remember, Land Rover chose this engine for its simplicity, power(at least at the time), light weight(very few engines of the time where aluminum) and durability. This is an easy engine to work on, and if proper maintenance is followed, they last forever. My RR had 260K on it when I sold it, and my wifes Disco is at 235K now. Good luck!!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    city of maples
    Posts
    398

    Default glad to hear

    glad you guys sorted out yuor oil problems,and a bid THANKS for the follow up..

  5. #15

    Default

    Well we're back!~! The landy got a nice new/used motor running like a top glad to say, i finally get to enjoy it at last, we also have just placed a post on here about my cruise control, it was working fine used it a couple of times and now the light comes on but it wont engage? any tips would help, and it was finally nice to give you guys a decent update we thank everyone for all their tips since we were new last year. thanks again, jim and sheila (skarvo)

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