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Thread: Cummins 4BTA 2A One Ton HiCap

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by J!m
    Get generic spring perches and weld them on to the new axle tube to align with the series frame. ...
    Gee, why didn't I think of that . All kidding aside, I'd have done that if it were feasible, but it cannot be done with full width axles. You'd have to weld one of the spring perches right on top of the pumpkin. Your two choices are to either shorten the axle width or outboard the springs.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    290

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    Yes, shortening one side of the axle to get the diff where it should be I thought was obvious, but perhaps not...

    Fo those who don't know, you have to have all your drive line angles correct (diff input parallel to t-case output [most important] and side angle as close to zero as possible under the weight of the truck at rest [slightly less important]). If the transfer case output is outside the frame rail, then the pumpkin needs to be outside the frame rail (and your spring perch needs to be ON the diff, like the stock series nearly is). If the transfer box output is within the frame rails, the diff needs to be within the frame rails.

    You want no angle to the side if it can be avoided- the drive shaft parallel to the frame rail (and it obviously can be in this case, since you are making it up custom), so set it correctly before you weld it, or have an axle made up the correct width with the diff in the correct place. There are several companies who do this sort of work, and this is what we refer to as "the right way" to set up custom rigs, if you simply MUST change out the axles. I'd suggest a set of Ford 9 inch front and rear, so you have the removable third member like a stock series truck for quick repairs (although they don't break).

    Now the stories come pouring in of how "it's been XXX years since I did mine and it's fine" well, take the chance then. Meanwhile, look under any factory car or truck and see how the side angle is as close to zero as possible... Do you think there may be a reason for this? Hmmm....
    Photographer / writer for LRM (until they screwed me).
    1995 110 Regular
    300Tdi, Series and Defender repairs in CT

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    MD
    Posts
    208

    Default

    Not looking to get into a discussion of what's obvious or not. OldHaven stated he was using full width axles, not narrowed axles, hence my question to OldHaven on what he did with the springs.

  4. #14

    Default front end revealed

    changed to coils and redid the mounts inboard lined up with standard 110 upper mounts

  5. #15

    Default more suspension pictures

    No mysteries, just a lot of welding and fitting

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Ron, great to see that thing done. Looks sweet. Considering a diesel swap into my IIA at present.

    Cheers! John

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Howey-In-The-Hills FL
    Posts
    27

    Default 109 Diesel Too?

    Quote Originally Posted by oldhaven
    I've been driving this for about a year after a 10 year project. Noisy but surprisingly civilized. Full width F250 8 lug front, 14 bolt rear, Ford F350 ZF 5 spd with np 205, Defender/RR coil suspension, 68 mph highway cruise at 1800 rpm. Not sure if it belongs here but it looks like a LR, and I have two more real ones so I qualify. Ron Franklin, Bowdoin, Me.
    Just got a 109 wagon, have been mulling over what to do to my new project. I have 2 generation 1 6BT dodges, a 1990 D350 dually 5 speed and a 1980 crew cab 4X4 currently undergoing off frame resto and conversion to the Cummins. I had been thinking about the 4BT for my next project the 109 Landrover. I see it's been some time since this thread was moving. Have you learned your MPG, I get 21 with the D350 dodge of mine. I figured the 4BT would do some better. Any other thoughs on your conversion. I want to do wider axles also, but though fullsize PU stuff would be too wide but yours looks good.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Rutland, Vermont
    Posts
    755

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    working on a project to put a pair of Dana 44 axles from an International Scout II (1980) under a 71 series III. planning on running a T18 or T19 4 speed with a Dana 300 transfer case...engine to be determined...might stick with stock for now. The R&P in the axles now are 2.72:1 which not going to work with a stock engine. I can get a plethora of R&P's for the Dana's though so no worries. The axles are a couple inches wider then the stock rover axles and the rear is a center drop instead of a passenger drop. To make the rear fit I just have to relocate the spring perches. To make the front fit without shortening the axle we have to widen the front spring mounts slightly....about 1.5" per side outboards. This is not so bad.

    Ideally I'd like to get a set of axles built to fit from either Moser or Currie but they are not in the budget at the moment.

    The nice thing about the 76 and later scout axles is that they are disc brake up front and there are tons of parts for them...plus they are very durable compared to stock.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    290

    Default

    Sounds like a nice project!

    Just add the Defender fender flares and it will look pretty 'socially aceptable' as well!
    Photographer / writer for LRM (until they screwed me).
    1995 110 Regular
    300Tdi, Series and Defender repairs in CT

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Concord, Va
    Posts
    110

    Default

    full coiler,galv chassis,4bt, hcpu. this thing is fawking cool !
    nicely done.
    DividingCreekImports.com
    Tdi 130 Crew Cab x2
    110 V8 5 door

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