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Thread: Door top removal

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    375

    Default Door top removal

    Any tricks to door top removal. Last weekend I was able to get one nut off and then the other broke off with the shaft.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    North MS
    Posts
    980

    Default

    When they're rusted in, it can be a real pain. The only trick that I use is to rock the top back and forth until one side becomes somewhat loose. Then get a screwdriver under that side and slowly pry up while still rocking the top back and forth. When you get one stud free, move to the other.
    61 II 109" Pickup (Restomod, 350 small block, TR4050)
    66 IIA 88" Station Wagon (sold)
    66 IIA 109" Pickup (Restomod, 5MGE, R380)
    67 IIA 109" NADA Wagon (sold)
    88, 2.5TD 110 RHD non-hicap pickup

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,743

    Default

    Sometimes they free up rather well, if I remember correctly I think that I have one that has NEVER come off. I even tried using a hydraulic jack. But it was a Rover that I tended to use in the winter when I was home in Maine so taking the passenger door top off wasn't a high priority job.

    So, you just have to work at it and a combination of prying banging praying swearing and jiggling should free it up.

    Brent
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

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  4. #4

    Default

    "PB Blaster" is the best thing in the universe for rusty nuts. That didn't sound right, but you know what I mean.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LaneRover
    Sometimes they free up rather well, if I remember correctly I think that I have one that has NEVER come off. I even tried using a hydraulic jack. But it was a Rover that I tended to use in the winter when I was home in Maine so taking the passenger door top off wasn't a high priority job.

    So, you just have to work at it and a combination of prying banging praying swearing and jiggling should free it up.

    Brent
    I have two that have never been off on my blue Rover. Actually the gray one too. I don't look forward to pulling those suckers off....
    '67 sort of station wagon (limestone), '65 gray hardtop, '63 blue Station Wagon, '64 limestone station wagon in pieces

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    218

    Default

    Anyone tried the quick nuts?:

    http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9788.cfm

    How do they work?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    twisties~South Lake Tahoe tarmac rallye style
    Posts
    733

    Default

    Yes, once the door tops and nuts are free, these type of fast removal speednuts work really well. I had them on my '94 Defender 90.

    FYI... The original Rovers North Series door top speednuts have an easily accessible nut on the outside, tapered end for easy removal and a burly knurled thick end for greasy Land Rover owner's hands. Also, only $52.45 for a complete set.

    DOOR TOP SPEEDNUT - 7/16" SERIES VEHICLES SET OF 4


    RoversNorth has the doortop speed nut for the Defender 90, 110 version as well.
    DOOR TOP SPEEDNUT - 10M DEFENDER SET OF 4
    Cheers, Thompson
    Art & Creative Director, Rovers Magazine
    Rovers North, Inc.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Redding, CT
    Posts
    1,504

    Default

    Do the speed nuts work on air-portable doors?

    I think the bar that the "trim" screws to might be too close to get these in there but not sure on that.

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