OK there is a lot going on in this thread, so I'll add my two cents for each point I think is relevant...
1) Parabolic springs. I wouldn't use them on a bet. Especially for a real overland expedition. If you are just outfitting your camper for US based weekend road trips to the local camp ground, that's another story. I can say with authority that if you applied for one of our (Drive the Globe) trips abroad, the springs would have to be changed for all the reasons Terri Ann pointed out. It is not a good idea to go 'custom' on a rig used in other countries either. Keep the Toyota axles under a Toyota. It doesn't make sense. Also, the proper leaf spring pack has much more torsional stiffness than a parabolic could ever hope for (which is partly why they articulate so well). The torsional stiffness helps greatly with body roll. You have testimonials from others, but they are not you, with your truck and your driving style. I strongly recommend avoiding them, and getting new 1-ton springs and either oiling them frequently, or adding the plastic as stated earlier. I run 109 1-ton springs on the rear of my 88 that was used in North Africa, and I had no spring related issues at all (and the ride quality is fine). Others in the group (with 109 station wagon springs) did have serious problems. Adding a 110 rear sway bar is not a bad idea either, but requires a bit of fab work...
2) Rear axle. The strength of the Salisbury is there. I thought all the ambulances already had these installed. A good idea if you don't have one for some reason... NOTE: the 101 axle uses different gear ratio than the series, and will require a gear change (Also not a bad idea, and for the record,no one that I know of has ever broken a 101 axle shaft). If you go with the Rover axle, get the Great Basin axles as recommended. I tested the prototypes in North Africa fully laden and they are great. Be aware, the weak link in the system moved up-stream in this case. For me, it was the ring gear I broke...
3) The final frontier: If you are really serious about making a proper expedition vehicle out of this ambulance, please give this idea serious consideration. Get a new galvanized 110 frame from RN and build the truck up on coils. I run the 130-style 1-ton dual rear springs, and the ride is fantastic heavy or light. (by light I mean un-loaded. With a truck cab and an empty bed, it could get bouncy). Beside the obvious load-carrying capacity, you enjoy fantastic articulation (even with the rear sway installed) and the ride is smooth enough to reduce a lot of the noises that occur over the road and trail. This alone can reduce driver fatigue significantly, making the drive much more comfortable, and increase the amount of time you can spend "in the saddle". If you use it around town empty and then the occasional trip, the inner springs can easily be removed in a few minutes, although I never bother, as the ride is fine. How long does it take to change springs on the ambulance now? The 110 Salisbury axles are nearly bullet-proof. Again, like the 101, the gears will have to be changed to retain the 2.5l engine. But, it's a great time to get a 300Tdi or International 2.8 in there. You will enjoy more power, lots more torque and double the travel range on a tank of fuel. Fully laden I get 20MPG from my 300Tdi; my series 88" (light or heavy) gets 10MPG. I easily go 550 miles on a fill-up, and all I have is an additional 10-gallon piggy-back tank from Mantec, so the added fuel weight is not huge.
Think it through well. There are many options out there, and if you are serious, you have to take every detail seriously. Cutting a corner here or there can cost you your trip, or worst case, your life.
Owner: James Leach Global Expedition Services.
1995 110 Regular