Hub Nut Removal

[Jim-ME]

I purchased the hub nut tool, bent the lock washer off the nut but still can't seem to get them off. I'm afraid that I'm going to round the nut off. Any sugestions? Would heat help? Thanks,
Jim

[Leslie]

Is the lock tab all the way back? I've had them still holding some, if they're not flattened up enough away from the nut. If the hub-nut socket isn't a bum one, it should fit the nut correctly and not round it off. I don't think you should involve heat at this point, not yet anyway. Are you using a ratchet, or a breaker bar? How long is your handle? Have an extension for more leverage (such as a jack handle?)?

FWIW...

[TeriAnn]

I purchased the hub nut tool, bent the lock washer off the nut but still can't seem to get them off. I'm afraid that I'm going to round the nut off.

That's puzzling! You are just trying to turn the top nut only, right? You are positive that the washer is completely bent away from the top nut all the way around right? No chance an edge of the washer is still inhibiting the nut's movement? You are turning counter clockwise right? The nuts are not normally on with a lot of torque.

The hub nuts have long flats, if your hub socket fits properly (tight over the nut) there is no way you will be able to round off the flats. Use a longer breaker bar. If your hub socket doesn't fit all flats of the nut as snugly as any other socket fits the nut size it is intended for, replace the socket.

Some folks use a chissel on the nuts and bugger them up with sharp edges that could poke into a washer. When you get the nuts off, if they are not perfect, replace them. They are cheap.

Good luck and let us know if you discover why the hub nut is stuck.

[J!m]

I received some new hub nuts from RN a while ago (never got around to sending them back) and the nut size was smaller than the stock ones.

I ended up refurbishing my old ones with new lock washers, as I felt the smaller surface area of the smaller nuts was not a good idea...

[singingcamel]

it should'nt be that tight .i would have to say that a keeper is still holding it.
was there a cotter key there when you took it apart? if there was'nt chances are it was torque down by some one.

[Jazzop]

1. Make sure your breaker bar is a Craftsman or other brand which can be replaced for free. (Ratchet not recommended)

2. Obtain a steel or lead pipe, minimum of four feet in length, with an inner diameter just large enough to fit around the handle of your breaker bar.

3. Slip pipe over breaker bar and experience the awesome force of torque.

4. If breaker bar should shear, return it to the store and try again with replacement model.

[J!m]

Yes, we're all aware of this 'tried and true' method, which falls just short of the 'gas wrench' (AKA oxy-acetylene torch).

HOWEVER; it shouldn't be that friggin' tight!

Perhaps some lock-tite was used? if it's the red stuff, the gas wrench will be needed to break the bond (don't melt anything). Why someone would do this is beyond me, unless they lost/damaged the original lock washer. Two nuts locked together with lock-tite on them? You mide as well just get a new axle... Not too smart whoever is responsible for that, as it can't be adjusted!

[Jim-ME]

I finally got them off. It took a grade 8 3/8s bolt 18" long slipped thru the holes in the RN tool combined with a 4' pipe. It was strange in that the inner nuts were very easy to take off. The bearings look very good. Now to the paint shop and an order for new seals. Thanks to all for your help.
Jim

[TeriAnn]

I finally got them off. It took a grade 8 3/8s bolt 18" long slipped thru the holes in the RN tool combined with a 4' pipe.

Huh? I've only seen hub wrenches that are just big sockets, usualy half inch drive sockets made from sheet steel. RN sells something different than the common hub socket? Usually you just put a socket wrench on the socket and turn. How do you use the RN "tool"???

[Jim-ME]

This is what I got.