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Thread: Bolt Torque

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    57

    Exclamation Bolt Torque

    Join Date: Dec 2006
    Location: Germany
    Posts: 14


    Bolt Torque
    Just a note!!
    I'm not saying this was the issue with Rocktons timing cover reinstall, but this is a good time to mention this.....

    If you are going to do your own engine work, invest in two torque wrenches:
    1. A big one(half inch drive) in ft/lbs for all the big stuff(cyl head bolts/wheels/other biggies)....
    2. A small one(3/8 drive) in inch/lbs for all the small stuff(timing covers/intake bolts etc)
    3. BUY THE FACTORY WORKSHOP MANUAL, AND THE FACTORY ELEC. MANUAL--THE BEST INVESTMENT YOU CAN MAKE(TAKE WITH YOUR CAR IF YOU HAVE A MECHANIC, HE WILL LOVE YOU AND SAVE YOU MONEY)
    Rovers North sells both.

    ROVERS HAVE ALUMINUM ENGINES AND COMPONENTS!!! AND YOU WILL STRIP OUT THE THREADS IF YOU DONT HAVE THE PRECISION INSTRUMENTS TO DO THIS CORRECTLY!!!!

    Typical overtorque damage spots are: oil pumps, valve covers, oil pans, timing covers, intakes, plenum covers, exhaust manifold....ANY WHERE A STEEL HARDENED BOLT GOES INTO NICE SOFT ALUMINUM!!!!!
    If it strips out, you have a 90% chance you will have a permenent leak until repaired properly.
    There is nothing like being on the last bolt of the intake when that familiar SNAP !! occurs or suddenly the bolt STARTS TURNING REAL EASY !!

    ANOTHER NOTE!! LR STARTED USING STRETCH BOLTS FOR THE HEAD BOLTS IN 1996 I THINK(IE WHEN GEMS REPLACED 14 SUX) TO PREVENT LEAKS-IT DIDNT WORK ALL THE TIME, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY YOU CANT REUSE THESE BOLTS!!!! YOU MUST BUY NEW SET EVERY TIME HEADS COME OFF!!!!(on another note, you will find the last head bolt on drivers side hard to get at, if you have an older LR that has had heads off you will see a dent in the fire wall where the tech took a hammer to it to "adjust" the fire wall clearance to get a big torque wrench in there!!)

    When I worked at the dealer, I cant even remember how many cars would come in from shops on a flatbed after some hack mechanic broke something etc. or some poor guy didnt understand what torque specs are. I'm not advocating going to the dealer on older cars(just go and price a valve job at a LR dealer) but make sure the guy working on it knows Rovers. There are lots of guys leaving the dealers(just like I did)and working at smaller shops or starting their own up shops now, so there is alot of experience out there now(I remember the days when there where only about 150 certified LR techs in the whole USA!!), you just have to find a good shop or learn how to do it yourself CORRECTLY!!

    Hope this helps
    Cheers from Bavaria
    Jack
    Last edited by JSalyer; 12-14-2006 at 03:49 AM.

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