Rear Driveshaft Hung Up In Crossmember

[bullstanky]

I bought an Atlantic British parabolic suspension kit and had my shop install it in the place of the completely worn out shocks and springs on my SIII 109. The rear springs were so bad they were bending in an "s" shape in the wrong direction....

The new suspension looks great, but when I went to pick it up from the shop, I immediately noticed a womp womp womp vibration when I let off the accelerator. After turning right back around and heading back to the shop, we figured out that the new springs changed the rear drive shaft angle so much that the clearance between the shaft and the hole in the cross member is minimal, and a balancing weight on the shaft is hitting the cross member. It doesn't help that the u-joint is also worn out.

It looks like the mounts for the transfer case are worn out, and replacing these might give me just the lift I need to clear the cross member, in addition to a new u-joint and either balancing the drive shaft to eliminate the weight, or replacing it all together.

So here's the question, are the transmission mounts that are available interchangeable and/or the same as the mounts above the transfer case? I can't find any transfer case mounts listed, and since the transmission and transfer case are mated, I'm hoping that they are one in the same.

[leafsprung]

same

[TeriAnn]

The gearbox mounts are the same as the engine mounts. The diesel ones are a bit stronger than the petrol ones. If your engine mounts look a bit tired you might as well replace them at the same time. It never hurts to carry a spare pair in case one or two break on you whilst out on the trail.

Descending a canyon trail can be a bit tricky when the engine is flopping around loose in the engine bay and you have to stop frequently and lever it back to be more or less in line.

[LaneRover]

The diesel ones are a bit stronger than the petrol ones.

I have heard that the diesel ones are actually a bit weaker because they are softer in an 'attempt' to lessen the vibrations.

Brent

[chester rides again]

I was having a similar problem with my RM parabolics. I went to the local spring shop and the guy told me that there are shims of various degrees, up to 5 degrees or so, that will raise the front angle of your rear axle.

That would be a pretty simple fix to consider. You simply undo the spring, insert the shim between the spring and axle and bolt the u-bolts back. The only possible issue would be having to install a longer pin in the center of the parabolic spring.

jeff

[enovey]

Hopefully you can fix the problem, but Atlantic British would not sell me the set of parabolics that I ordered from them. After I placed the order, they called me back and said that they couldn't sell them because the sets that they were selling were giving other buyers problems. The exact problems you are having. They said that the springs raised the ride height too much and the shafts were binding.
Again good luck with a fix, maybe you can still return them?

[KevinNY]

Parabolics will usually settle a bit, then your problem may go away. Throw 500 LBS in the back and leave it there for a few days while you drive around.

[I Leak Oil]

The new suspension looks great, but when I went to pick it up from the shop, I immediately noticed a womp womp womp vibration when I let off the accelerator.

Sawzall Baby!!!!!
(seriously....)
Jason T.

[thixon]

Replace you're joints, they probably need it anyway. Let the springs settle, and replace your mounts. You should be good. Most (I'd say all, but someone on here would correct me) leaf springs settle quite a bit a short time after installation.

[Eric W S]

Leave the Sawzall for more appropriate tasks. Thixon hit it on the head. Fix the shaft and wait for the springs to settle then replace the bushings.

While your there inspect you brake lines to ensure they are not too taught and investigate longer shocks as well. OME are a popular choice.