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Thread: Rear Driveshaft Hung Up In Crossmember

  1. #11

    Angry

    Thanks all for the advice. I think I'll leave the sawzall alone for now, replace the u-joints/driveshaft and engine/gearbox mounts. If the shaft is still binding after all of that, a couple hundred pounds of sandbags might become a fixture in the bed until time/gravity do their trick.

    Quote Originally Posted by enovey
    Hopefully you can fix the problem, but Atlantic British would not sell me the set of parabolics that I ordered from them. After I placed the order, they called me back and said that they couldn't sell them because the sets that they were selling were giving other buyers problems. The exact problems you are having. They said that the springs raised the ride height too much and the shafts were binding.
    Again good luck with a fix, maybe you can still return them?
    Interesting that Atlantic British wouldn't sell the parabolics. I first tried to get the spring kit from RN in May, and was suprised when I called to be told that they wouldn't have any available until next year. I then called Atlantic British, who sold me the parabolics and didn't mention a thing.

    I called Atlantic British two days ago to describe my problem and ask about the mounts (they couldn't tell me that the transmission and transfer case mounts are the same). I described fully the issue and that it arose from the new spring kit, but there was no mention that this is a recurring issue.

    After paying $1000 for the suspension installation, I'm not likely to pull the springs and send them back. Anybody think they should give me a discount on the parts to fix the problem?
    '75 SIII 109 Diesel - I'm in deep.

  2. #12

    Default

    Probably best since the problem is a vendor different from our host to take the issue offline and work something out with their customer service...

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Fleetwood, PA
    Posts
    183

    Default

    do you have the Salisbury rear?
    I just got parabolics from RM and Mark told me that I would more than likely have to get shims because of the Salisbury, my 2 cents
    Neil Hanekom
    '73 LHD 88
    '75 FFR 109 exMOD Build Photo's
    '99 D1

  4. #14

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scatterling
    do you have the Salisbury rear?
    I just got parabolics from RM and Mark told me that I would more than likely have to get shims because of the Salisbury, my 2 cents
    I do have the Salisbury rear end. Where can I find shims that will do the trick?
    '75 SIII 109 Diesel - I'm in deep.

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by scatterling
    do you have the Salisbury rear?
    I just got parabolics from RM and Mark told me that I would more than likely have to get shims because of the Salisbury, my 2 cents

    I do have the Salisbury rear end. Where can I find shims that will do the trick?
    '75 SIII 109 Diesel - I'm in deep.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL and Maine
    Posts
    1,743

    Default

    If you are just getting your feet wet you will soon find that your knee next to the door will be wet too if you are driving in the rain.

    Brent
    1958 107 SW - Sold to a better home
    1965 109 SW - nearly running well
    1966 88 SW - running but needing attention
    1969 109 P-UP

    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...2&l=64cfe23aa2

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mass.
    Posts
    1,796

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bullstanky
    I do have the Salisbury rear end. Where can I find shims that will do the trick?
    Careful with the shim idea. Shims have their place but too much, which is what you would most likely need, will start to cause driveshaft angle problems.
    Remember, you need to clear the cross member enough so when the suspension is at full droop it doesn't make contact. Clearance at ride height isn't enough.
    When you go through the effort of replacing all the engine/tranny mounts, u-joints (sounds like you really need to do these), add enough shim to the rear to clear the cross member but add drive line vibrations, intentionally sag your new springs...sounds like making a small notch in the cross member is a minimal amount of work....you don't really need to use a sawzall but however you do it a notch will ultimately leave you with a better setup.
    Cut it, weld it up (or leave it), drive and enjoy it instead of putting more work into it.
    Jason T.

  8. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LaneRover
    If you are just getting your feet wet you will soon find that your knee next to the door will be wet too if you are driving in the rain.

    Brent
    I have a hole in the floor board that lets the rainwater from the dash vents drain as it comes through the cab, so my feet are wet and my socks are soaked.

    Now that I'm spending $k's on suspensions and other parts that don't quite line up, I feel like I'm getting a taste of the "authentic" Series LR experience!
    '75 SIII 109 Diesel - I'm in deep.

  9. #19

    Default

    After a little investigation, it appears that RN, Atlantic British and British Pacific were all getting parabolic springs from the same vendor, who at some point changed the specs of the rear springs creating the problem I have described with driveline geometry, and the current lack of available parabolic spring kits.

    Is there anything to worry about or look out for when notching and welding up a crossmember?
    '75 SIII 109 Diesel - I'm in deep.

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