Bulkhead door post replacement

[SeriesShorty]

I've searched a few threads for replacing the door posts on the bulkhead and all the ones I have found show the bulkhead removed to replace the post section. Is it possible to replace it with the bulkhead in place?

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/pc-...s-iia-iii.aspx

Thanks,
Shorty

[Leslie]

Sure.... Most of the time, people are sandblasting/cleaning up the bulkhead, so they've got it off of there anyway, and do the repairs then (as did I); but, it's possible to change out the footwells and the door posts w/ it in place.

[SafeAirOne]

Yeah---I've done mine in place. Just measure its position carefully, support the remaining bulkhead well and measure the new doorpost's position carefully before finalizing it.

EDIT: Using the one-piece doorpost helps a lot depending on how much doorpost you plan on replacing.

[om617]

I've done the repair with the bulkhead off and also while still installed on the vehicle. I second the advice on precise measurements. Try mounting the door to the replacement post and then using that to align the post on the bulkhead.

[SeriesShorty]

Thanks for all the replies, I am relieved! I was also tickled pink to see that Rovers North carried the replacement posts. I will be doing some of the prep work and getting instructions together...I am the worlds worst welder so this won't be a time for me to practice...then I'll be forwarding all of this information to a coworker or a neighbor for the welding portion and to "help". I'm a great sandwich maker/beer fetcher!

If you have any other tips or tricks I'd love to have them so that I can fully explain what needs happen to get these posts installed correctly.

Luckily, this is the only "major" steel repair that this truck needs. Once I get the ole boy running straight (and just enjoying driving for a bit) then I'll start prep for new posts.

[SafeAirOne]

When you get the parts from RN, they're covered with a black protective coating. I think the coating is PVC-based. You need to have this coating off before you weld or grind on the new parts. If you dont, it'll melt and be very difficult to remove.

Sandblasting will easily remove it. If you don't have access to a sandblaster/blast cabinet, MEK will remove it. You can get this at Home Depot/Lowes. It is sold as PVC pipe cleaner/primer in the plumbing department. Get the king-size can of the kind without purple dye.

MEK is some nasty stuff. You do not want this to touch your skin. Splash some in your eyes, and it's over. If you use this, WEAR PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND USE EYE PROTECTION! Expect a big black mess on your workbench. Wipe away the dissolved black goop with plenty of paper towels.

[I Leak Oil]

I've done quite a bit of rust repair over the years both on rovers as well as other classic and unique vehicles. If you don't have the proper fixtures then doing the work in the vehicle is the next best thing. But...make sure the parts are just rusted and not damaged from an accident. No sense in taking measurements on parts that aren't in the right place to begin with. Take your time, take your measurements and cut away as little material at a time as possible. Don't cut all the old rusty stuff out at once. The old panels make good reference points. Tack weld parts in place, make sure everything fits before you button up the final welds.
Jason T.