Starting 2.5 Diesel

[GeoffWillis]

The questions from the nube begin...
1) I'm tired of charging my battery every time I want to start my new Rover. What size (Cold cranking amps) does land rover recommend for the 2.5 normally aspirated diesel? Plenty of room under the seat for any dimension battery, just need to know the power. The battery is currently held in place with a bungee cord. Is there any reason not to use just a universal battery hold down vs whatever land rover part is supposed to be there? I typically try to keep every thing OEM, but for something like this its tempting to run down to PEP boys and buy something.
2) Even with a good charge, the engine is hard to start. How do you know if the glow plugs need to be replaced? The glow plug indicator lamp is inoperative (Haven't checked the bulb/wiring yet), so I just turn key, wait 20-30 seconds and then crank. Even here in Texas where its 80-90 degrees, its hard to start.

[yorker]

With a diesel the more CCA the better, It sounds like yours is not turning your engine over fast enough. In 80 degree weather it should start right up. Check your connections, have your battery tested and go from there.

[Moose]

Geoff, are you turning the key to the correct glow plug position? I was getting this wrong when I got my 110. First click is the run/accessory position. Turn a bit farther to operate the glow plugs (there is no click to this position), then turn the rest of the way for the starter. With those kind of temps you shouldn't have to glow the 2.5 NA for very long, if at all. I would do mine for 20 - 30 seconds at 0 degree F to start last winter here in the Great White North.

The method I was told to test the plugs was to remove them, then put power to each one. If it glows bright red within about 5 seconds, it is good. Disconnect from the power soon as you see it get red. If after 10 seconds it is still not glowing red, it is history. Be very careful doing this though as the tips get VERY hot.

As Yorker said, the more CCA the better. I bought two new batteries for my truck. Just enough room under the seat for them both and it cranks like crazy, even at well below zero. You should be fine with one, but get the biggest that will fit under there.

[GeoffWillis]

Do you use the glow plug light in the instrument cluster? I'm going to tear into that this weekend and see if I can get it sorted out. My guess is it should go on when the plugs are warming, and go out when its ready to crank. I like the idea of two batterys, what kind of isolator do you use?, can the alternator recharge them both?

[Moose]

Yes, I use the light in the instrument cluster. It looks like a coiled piece of wire. Goes on when the plugs are warming but does not let you know when the engine is ready to crank. They stay on as long as you hold the key. I find it's just trial and error. On hot summer days I glow for 5 - 10 seconds and in the winter I've let it go for up to 40 seconds.

When I put in the dual batterys I meant to get an isolator, but you know how it is, just never got around to it. The batterys were new and identical, so there hasn't been any problems for the last two years. One of these days I'll stuff an isolator in there.

If you go with a two battery set up, make sure you measure the height of the batterys before you commit to buying them. There is a lot of room under the seat, but the ones I bought are almost too tall towards the back of the seatbox.

Brett

[GeoffWillis]

Thanks Brett, all good info. I'll let you know how it works out. Just ordered the replacement top from RN, hard to beat that price!

[GeoffWillis]

Geoff, are you turning the key to the correct glow plug position? I was getting this wrong when I got my 110. First click is the run/accessory position. Turn a bit farther to operate the glow plugs ("), then turn the rest of the way for the starter. With those kind of temps you shouldn't have to glow the 2.5 NA for very long, if at all. I would do mine for 20 - 30 seconds at 0 degree F to start last winter here in the Great White North.

The method I was told to test the plugs was to remove them, then put power to each one. If it glows bright red within about 5 seconds, it is good. Disconnect from the power soon as you see it get red. If after 10 seconds it is still not glowing red, it is history. Be very careful doing this though as the tips get VERY hot.

As Yorker said, the more CCA the better. I bought two new batteries for my truck. Just enough room under the seat for them both and it cranks like crazy, even at well below zero. You should be fine with one, but get the biggest that will fit under there.

Ok Brett, now I see what you mean about finding the correct position. The "there is no click to this position" should have been a clue, but yesterday I paused going to start and found that 3rd glow position. Waited about 10 sec and she just jumped to life!
Spent a lot of time crawling around under the beast (needs a name?) and was surprised by a few things. Figured I'd get the engine serial number (Handy to have), and there is a plate attached to where the number should be stating "Remanufactured for ABRO", and a date (2000), kinda cool. Still wish I knew the serial... Was wondering about the transmission, and it too had a remanufactured sticker (2003) but I don't know how to tell the type, is it an LT77, LT230? how do you tell? Also have an interesting overdrive unit. My old series II had a Fairey overdrive and could maintain on the highway. This unit has plate stating its from "Rock Mountain Overdrive", model 50502, and even the url for their web site! (www.roverdrives.com). Anyone have any experience with these units? It seem fairly well made, and leaks just enough so you know it belongs there.
Anyway, lots done, (New soft top looks great), lot of questions. Thanks folks.
Geoff

[Moose]

Glad to hear you got the starting sorted out Geoff.

Most of the Ex-Mod 110's and 90's I have seen have ABRO remanufactured engines and gearboxes in them, mine included. Don't know if this is a good or bad thing. Check the diffs as they are done often as well.

Your truck will have the LT77. Look at the shifter knob. Reverse will be to the left and up, beside 1st. The R380 gearbox came later and it has reverse to the right and down, below 5th. The transfer box will be the LT230.

I noticed the green shifter knob in pix of your truck and thought it likely had the RM Roverdrive. A lot of folks like them in their Series trucks, but I haven't heard much about the Defender version. I want to put one in my Series 3 once I put the 2.5 diesel in it. I'd like to hear how you find it for driving in the 110.

I'd like to see a pictures with the new top on. I have been thinking about getting one for my 110 as well. Of course I would need all the hood sticks too seeing as mine is currently a hard top, so that's kind of kept me from splashing out for the top. Hard to tell in the Rovers North picture, is the top canvas or the rubbery/plastic PVC type?

Brett

[seaswood]

Brett,
Before I had to leave to return to work I was cleaning off all the mud & what ever off the transmission transfer case on my D-90 x mod.
There was one set of numbers that gave the ratios of the transmission. Les was able to verify they were military gears ie. a lower 1st gear. Les whom works at RN has a 90 x mod said there was another number for the transmission. I believe I have the LT77 but still have to clean off more mud to find that other # Good Luck under there Basically there are numbers all over the place some mean something some?
Craig
Spent a lot of time crawling around under the beast (needs a name?) and was surprised by a few things. Figured I'd get the engine serial number (Handy to have), and there is a plate attached to where the number should be stating "Remanufactured for ABRO", and a date (2000), kinda cool. Still wish I knew the serial... Was wondering about the transmission, and it too had a remanufactured sticker (2003) but I don't know how to tell the type, is it an LT77, LT230? how do you tell? Also have an interesting overdrive unit. My old series II had a Fairey overdrive and could maintain on the highway. This unit has plate stating its from "Rock Mountain Overdrive", model 50502, and even the url for their web site! (www.roverdrives.com). Anyone have any experience with these units? It seem fairly well made, and leaks just enough so you know it belongs there.
Anyway, lots done, (New soft top looks great), lot of questions. Thanks folks.
Geoff[/quote]

[GeoffWillis]

Brett, I've posted a few new pictures with the top up/down. Problem is my kids arn't here to show me how to link them here. If you go to my first post (New Rover Today) and on the last page I posted a shot from the dealers lot. There are now a bunch new that you can browse through. In answer to your question, the material is more of a rubbery/plastic material than like the old canvas top I used to have. Didn't think I'd like it at first but its wearing on me. I think it will clean up easier, just hope it can hold up to the Texas sun/heat. Excellent fit and Rovers North (Shameless plug for our sponsor) included all the bits and pieces. I too needed the hoop set, but was a great deal compared to the price of a new Badger top.