clutch master cylinder rebuild

[dansalisbury72]

I am getting some pretty serious brake fluid leakage down the clutch pedal arm, so I assume that I have a clutch master cylinder problem. Is a rebuild on one of these a big job? I took the side of the front wing off to get a better look at it but it looks like I may have to take the top part of the wing off also to get better access to the pedal assembly that covers the master cylinder. I assume that the rebuild kit comes with new rubber for the cylinder, but never having done this job before, I would appreciate any advice from those that have done it before. Any tips/warnings/dos, don'ts?

thanks...

Dan in NC

[BGGB]

i'm pretty sure that you'll need to buy a brake hone to clean up the insides...but i'm not totally sure on that

[mechman]

Sounds like you are on the right track, the clutch master has probably gone out. I'm not a big fan of rebuilding brake or clutch cylinders - it can be done, but if you're not 100% on your hone job it won't last long. The new rubber that comes in the rebuild kits doesn't seem as sturdy as the OE cups. IMO you'd be better off buying a new one.

Mech

[SafeAirOne]

If the inside of the MC isn't too badly scored, you could rebuild it. You will need to get a brake/wheel cylinder hone to hone the inside of the bore, then flush it well. Just pay attention to where/how you take the rubber parts off and put the new ones back in the same place. The clutch MC is much less complex than the brake MC. Having said that, sometimes it's easier and more reliable to just buy a new MC. Be careful of aftermarket MC's. Some are OK, some are junk.

BTW, Take it from somebody who has had their wings of and on a half-dozen times in the last year--I have always found it easier to take the whole wing assembly off as a unit--it's only held on to the radiator support panel with 5 nuts (or nuts and bolts in my case). The hardest part is threading the wiring through the rad support panel.

[Rineheitzgabot]

I've been this route.

Buy new. Don't rebuild. You'll be happier in the long run.

If you don't have the cash, hobble along with a leaky one, until you do (carry a bottle of girling with you).

If cash and time are not a problem, replace the whole circuit; master, slave, lines, etc. all at once.

For me, it's simply nice to have the peace of mind.

[luckyjoe]

I also suggest you replace with new - the MC, slave and flex line. If you are intent on rebuilding it, replace with new and put teh rebuild in your spares kit (properly preserved with red brake grease). With the wing off for access, it is the perfect time to clean/paint the pedal and box. And be sure to lube the pedal-pivot as well, you cannot access the lube hole/bolt with the wing and (LHD) brake pedal box in place.

Regards,

[Tim Smith]

I have to agree with the above. I've never had much luck rebuilding mine and you know that the slave and flex line will probably die soon too, thanks to Murphy. Also be sure you run the correct fluids as the wrong brake fluid will eat away at the rubber seals quickly.

One last thing. Try to keep the brake fluid away from your paintwork as it will eat that away faster than you'd like to know.

Don't ask how I know this.

[dansalisbury72]

how much damage can I expect from using the non-girling brake fluid? The clutch went out a couple weeks ago and I discovered that it was due to little/no fluid in the reservoir, which I now assume is due to the master cylinder leak. I was in a pinch and needed to get home so I put in some generic fluid that I got from a local auto store. That same fluid also is in the brake lines due to the common reservoir. Am I screwed or is it not that bad a deal?

thanks...

Dan

[SafeAirOne]

I was in a pinch and needed to get home so I put in some generic fluid that I got from a local auto store. That same fluid also is in the brake lines due to the common reservoir. Am I screwed or is it not that bad a deal?

Yes you are screwed. You can expect eventual deterioration of all rubber parts. Ask me how I know. (I was in a pinch once too).

[Donnie]

I am getting some pretty serious brake fluid leakage down the clutch pedal arm, so I assume that I have a clutch master cylinder problem. Is a rebuild on one of these a big job? I took the side of the front wing off to get a better look at it but it looks like I may have to take the top part of the wing off also to get better access to the pedal assembly that covers the master cylinder. I assume that the rebuild kit comes with new rubber for the cylinder, but never having done this job before, I would appreciate any advice from those that have done it before. Any tips/warnings/dos, don'ts?

thanks...

Dan in NC

I tend to disagree with every one who wants to replace everything with new, new is not always better, especially with all the off shore junk that is flooding our market. I rebuild everything that I can get parts for..Electrical, mechanical or hydraulic...in your case, if your bore does not clean up, buy new, but the clutch master cyl is a cake walk, you need a brerry-hone & a kit, & a couple of hours.
accessing it is the most difficult manuver U will C....Donnie