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Thread: Bleeding Brakes

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    11

    Default Bleeding Brakes

    I have a question regarding bleeding of the brake system.

    I just replaced the rear calipers, rotors and pads on my 97 Discovery for the first time.

    I bled both of the rear calipers using one of those neat little one man bleeder kits with the plastic bottle and tube assembly. The brake pedal still seems to feel pretty "soft". The vehicle stops fine, but the brake pedal does trael all the way to the floor and never really feels firm.

    I don't have another Disco to compare it to, shouldn't the pedal feel firm like right away?


    Do I need to bleed the master cylinder also?

    Should I continue to bleed the rear calipers or what?

    Thanks for your assistance.

    I must add that I got the parts from RN. As well as the new bearings and hub wrench adapter and the answers to some questions that popped up during my ordeal.

    The only issue I had was replacement nyloc nuts for the ABS sensor ring reassembly and new bolts for the brake calipers. I ended up getting these from the local Land Rover dealership. It would have been nice if both had been/were included along with the caliper and rotors like the spring and pin kit. It would have saved me considerable delay in completing the rebuild.

    I want to thank Les and the rest of the crew for their assistance in this effort. Without your assistance, the Disco would still be up on jacks in the driveway. It's great to have it on all four wheels again.

    This is the wrong time of year to be working on the Rover outside.
    Danny Lee

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    11

    Default Bleeding Brakes

    Guys,

    I was hoping to have gotten an answer by now. I guess I will have to resort to calling RN during business hours and bothering Les or one of the gang.
    Danny Lee

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Down south.....for now.
    Posts
    62

    Default

    You need to bleed the entire system. That means all 4 wheels.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    91

    Default

    what he said,

    but to explain, once you open the system air gets in all the lines most of the time. this means bleeding from all four wheels systematically to get all air back out. also its not a bad time to flush your brake fluid since you'll be bleeding all four anyway. could save ya some trouble in the future. DOT4 btw. yes its more expensive than 3 but there's a reason for that. shouldn't take more than an hour (2-3 beers) with a bleeder kit to flush the whole thing and have ya back up and goin! i'd do it rather promptly as brakes get unpredictable with air in lines. cheers!

    oh side notes; brake fluid though an excellent cleaner will eat away at rubber bushings and such (even tires) so watch your spills and clean them up. nitrile gloves are a worthwhile invesment for your skin's sake. safety first!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    11

    Default Bleeding brakes

    I truly appreciate the more detailed explanation.

    I did find valvoline synthetic dot4 in quart bottles with dollar off coupons on them at the auto parts store, so I bought 4 quarts so I could go ahead and bleed the system.

    Also drained and refilled rear diff, still need to do front diff.

    Thanks for your help.
    Danny Lee

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Kingsport
    Posts
    613

    Default

    On a Disco, I think/hope, you should be okay w/ the Valvoline. FWIW, in both my Series and my Disco, I only run Castrol LMA. It's gotten a bit harder to find, as Advance and NAPA don't carry it anymore. PepBoys always has it on the shelf when I stop by one, but there's not one here in my neck of the woods. Finally, the local CarQuest figured out how to order the stuff for me, I get it by the case and keep it stocked here in my own garage that way.
    -L

    '72 SIII SW 88"
    '60 SII 88" RHD

  7. #7

    Default

    The one man kits are pointless. I replaced all 4 and you need to do the 2 man bleed on all brakes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    11

    Default Bleeding Brakes

    Thanks to all that responded,

    It just never occurred to me that I would need to bleed the front brakes as well, but it does make sense. After all they share the same reservior.

    I remember older Chevy's or something that the reservior was seperate wells for front and back.

    As soon as the weather breaks, I'll get back on it.
    Danny Lee

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Down south.....for now.
    Posts
    62

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Danny Lee 97 Discovery
    Thanks to all that responded,

    It just never occurred to me that I would need to bleed the front brakes as well, but it does make sense. After all they share the same reservior.

    I remember older Chevy's or something that the reservior was seperate wells for front and back.

    As soon as the weather breaks, I'll get back on it.
    L/F & R/R are interconnected & R/F & L/R share circuits. That's in case the R/R fails, you would still have brakes.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    11

    Default Bleeding brakes

    Thanks for the response. Seems I learn more and more as I plow along.

    Did the left front side, but the bleed screw stripped on me on the right side.

    I took one out of the calipers I had replaced on the rear. Hopefully I can get the stripped one out with some coaxing and an ez out.
    Danny Lee

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