My 1965 Series 2A Has Developed a couple of faults - Help!

[russward]

My series has developed a couple of faults but I am unsure whether they are connected - any advice would be appreciated.

The engine starts up first time even when cold and then it starts to idle irratically then sorts itself out and idles fine. When driving she runs fine but will stall when I stop - I have also noticed that the clutch has started to feel spongy and will momentarily stick down and then come up slowly - could these problems be connected or is it coincidence that they have started about the same time. The only thing that I have done is fitted a battery cut off switch so that I can turn the power off to the battery when not running her for a while. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Russ

[a109]

The good news is that the two problems are unrelated.
You dont mention which series you have and this is important for the clutch situation since the series 2/2a has a different clutch release mechanism from the series 3.
After you have checked the pedal return springs just above the pedal look further at the linkage.
On the series2/2a failure to return the pedal can be from a little bearing on the outer end of the shaft that takes the movement into the bell housing and is situated below the slave cylinder. This is known to seize, it is a simple bronze ball that can be cleaned and lubed. Another problem area is the pedal arm pivot too.
The series 3 doesn't have the same arrangement and if the return spring is ok
and the pedal pivot is free it could mean a failing master cylinder.

The engine may well be running rich. Take a look to be sure the choke butterfly is in the vertical position with the choke knob in.
If that is ok then you have further carb problems that need investigating.
John

[Seriesguy]

The first time I had a clutch pedal slow to return it was the pedal pivot. These actually are hollow with a short bolt in the one end. The bolt is supposed to be removed and the cavity filled with oil during services. Of course nobody ever does it. The second time I ran into this problem somebody had put the wrong brake fluid in the clutch system and swelled the seals and made the system very sluggish to operate. As both problebs require the removal of the pedal box I would recommend buying a new clutch master cyl. and pulling the pedal tower, remove the pivot pin and clean/lube/oil and replace the master while you're there. Depending on your available $ it would also be prudent to replace the flex line and slave cylinder and install some fresh Castrol LMA brake fluid. In one fell swoop you'll have a rebuilt and dependable clutch system. Cheers, Mark

[Jeff Aronson]

[quote=russward]My series has developed a couple of faults but I am unsure whether they are connected - any advice would be appreciated.

The engine starts up first time even when cold and then it starts to idle irratically then sorts itself out and idles fine. When driving she runs fine but will stall when I stop

It sounds very much like you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I have found that my '66 II-A seems to have loose bolts in critical places: at the base of the carb or the intake manifold bolts. You may have adjusted the carb to compensate for the problem, which might be that you're sucking in air and leaning out the mixture.

You don't say what carb you're running. The original Solex has a lot of rubber washers and gaskets that can leak and cause erratic running. If you're running a Zenith or a Weber, you might just have junk in the fuel bowl, the carb filter or the float bowl chamder. The jets are very fine in diameter, so any junk will cause a stall out but permit general running.

- I have also noticed that the clutch has started to feel spongy and will momentarily stick down and then come up slowly - could these problems be connected or is it coincidence that they have started about the same time. The only thing that I have done is fitted a battery cut off switch so that I can turn the power off to the battery when not running her for a while. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

The clutch issues have been covered elsewhere. Check the clutch fluid. Is the resevoir topped up? Do you have leak? If the fluid is grey or black in color, then you have an internal leak developing in the system. The replacement recommendations are the likelly solutions.

You write of a spongy feel - that implies air in the system. Have you bled the clutch system? The bleed nipple is on the slave cylinder, easy to reach through the transmission tunnel hole on the right hand side. Remove the plug - the nipple needs a 7/16" wrench.

If the sponginess is really just a slow return, then the pivot is the problem, as recommended. I had that problem before a rebuild of my II-A.

Good luck,

Jeff

[russward]

Thanks for the replies guys, thankfully the weekend is now pon us so I will have some time to investigate and use your advice to see if I can find the problem, an additional problem that occurred today on my way home from work was that as I changed down into second gear to make a sharp left turn the clutch did not re-engage when I let out the clutch pedal, I then tried to dip the clutch again and the pedal was solid and would not move, I ground to a halt, after about 30 sec the clutch pedal was free again and I could put into gear and drive off with no problems - does this narrow down the problem?

My land rover is a series 2A, originally it had a desiel engine but at sometime it has been changed to a series 3, 2 1/4 petrol engine, I believe the gearbox and transmission is also from a series 3.

I will look back later for any advice you can give - thanks, Russ

[russward]

I have just noticed that I have the combined clutch and brake fluid reservoir - what fluid should be used in this?

[jp-]

I have just noticed that I have the combined clutch and brake fluid reservoir - what fluid should be used in this?

The correct fluid, of course...

[russward]

thanks fo that......... The reason for the question is that should you use brake fluid or something else?

Russ

[Seriesguy]

Use nothing but Castrol LMA fluid.

[jp-]

Castrol GT LMA