reviving a long unused IIA 109" SW

[t.Russ]

I'm about to acquire a '62 Series IIA 109 5-door SW with 35,000 miles from the original owner. It's on blocks in a garage, hasn't been started in 5 yrs., nor has the engine been hand-cranked in 2 yrs. "because the clutch has seized from lack of use", when the plugs were removed and Marvel oil was introduced to avoid top-end corrosion. Planning to tow it home instead of trying to drive it yet.

Besides new hoses, belts, filters, seals ? (no signs of leaks at present), changing vital fluids, what else should one be watching for in preping this long anticipated acquisition for return to regular use ( a daily 15 mile roundtrip commute in FL) ? Recommendations would be gratefully considered. It seems to be in good condition but I know only too well appearences can be misleading.

[TeriAnn]

I'm about to acquire a '62 Series IIA 109 5-door SW with 35,000 miles from the original owner. It's on blocks in a garage, hasn't been started in 5 yrs., nor has the engine been hand-cranked in 2 yrs. "because the clutch has seized from lack of use", when the plugs were removed and Marvel oil was introduced to avoid top-end corrosion. Planning to tow it home instead of trying to drive it yet.

Besides new hoses, belts, filters, seals ? (no signs of leaks at present), changing vital fluids, what else should one be watching for in preping this long anticipated acquisition for return to regular use

I suggest draining both hydraulic systems, replacing all the rubber and refilling with fresh brake fluid. The factory recommends replacing all the rubber every 2 years.

Drain and replace all the 90 wt. Check the steering box for looseness, adjust as needed, top off the steering box.

Jack the front end so the tyres are off the ground and have someone wiggle the steering back and fourth while you inspect each tie rod end for any sign of looseness. Replace as needed. Grease all tie rod ends and prop shaft U joints. Check U joints for looseness before you grease them. Check steering relay.

Drain radiator & flush cooling system. Replace hoses as needed.

Get a new sediment bowl seal & wiper blades. With new sediment bowl in hand remove, clean & replace. If you have not already, siphon out all the fuel and replace with fresh fuel.

Drain & replace engine oil & replace fuel filter. Replace the battery or charge it up as needed. Make sure connections to battery, starter button, starter motor and grounds are clean and tight.

Remove the plugs, squirt a little oil into each cylinder & turn the engine over on the starter motor until your oil pressure gauge registers pressure. Put the charger back on the battery to top it up while you replace the plugs (New ones if needed) & plug wires (New ones if needed). Squirt some starter fluid down the carb & try to fire it up.

[sayers]

I am going thru the same thing you are only my 88 was up on blocks for 20plus years, thankfully the last owner turned the engine over to keep the oil on top and kept it in a garage. My main concern is I want it to run when I am driving it and to stop. I have gone a step further and replaced the carb, and fuel pump, you might think about the hose from the fuel tank and pump up to the carb. I also went ahead and replaced the brake cylinders just to be on the safe side, some were leaking. You might also change the clutch fuild, I had to replace the water pump just because it had gotten some corrision in it so while the radiator was out I went ahead and had it clean out at a radiator shop. Other that that it seems that you are on the right course. One more think if you can you might check the gas tank for rust, there is a pretty large drain hole in the bottom that you can take out and run a finger around or like I did my neighbor is a plumber and he has a small lighted video camera that he uses for drain work, he stuck it down the fill tube and was able to get a look around from that angle. good luck ..

[t.Russ]

I suggest draining both hydraulic systems, replacing all the rubber and refilling with fresh brake fluid. The factory recommends replacing all the rubber every 2 years.

Drain and replace all the 90 wt. Check the steering box for looseness, adjust as needed, top off the steering box.

Jack the front end so the tyres are off the ground and have someone wiggle the steering back and fourth while you inspect each tie rod end for any sign of looseness. Replace as needed. Grease all tie rod ends and prop shaft U joints. Check U joints for looseness before you grease them. Check steering relay.

Drain radiator & flush cooling system. Replace hoses as needed.

Get a new sediment bowl seal & wiper blades. With new sediment bowl in hand remove, clean & replace. If you have not already, siphon out all the fuel and replace with fresh fuel.

Drain & replace engine oil & replace fuel filter. Replace the battery or charge it up as needed. Make sure connections to battery, starter button, starter motor and grounds are clean and tight.

Remove the plugs, squirt a little oil into each cylinder & turn the engine over on the starter motor until your oil pressure gauge registers pressure. Put the charger back on the battery to top it up while you replace the plugs (New ones if needed) & plug wires (New ones if needed). Squirt some starter fluid down the carb & try to fire it up.

Thanks TeriAnn, I appreciate the valuable information/ suggestions you've shared with me. Should others occur to you, please pass them on.

[t.Russ]

I am going thru the same thing you are only my 88 was up on blocks for 20plus years, thankfully the last owner turned the engine over to keep the oil on top and kept it in a garage. My main concern is I want it to run when I am driving it and to stop. I have gone a step further and replaced the carb, and fuel pump, you might think about the hose from the fuel tank and pump up to the carb. I also went ahead and replaced the brake cylinders just to be on the safe side, some were leaking. You might also change the clutch fuild, I had to replace the water pump just because it had gotten some corrision in it so while the radiator was out I went ahead and had it clean out at a radiator shop. Other that that it seems that you are on the right course. One more think if you can you might check the gas tank for rust, there is a pretty large drain hole in the bottom that you can take out and run a finger around or like I did my neighbor is a plumber and he has a small lighted video camera that he uses for drain work, he stuck it down the fill tube and was able to get a look around from that angle. good luck ..

Yes, our circumstances are similar. I'll keep your experiences in mind, thanks and good luck to you too, Sayers.

[Bostonian1976]

I'm in the same boat. Unfortunately mine was outside and hasn't been turned over since 1981 lol

[singingcamel]

i would like to add my two cents but terri ann beat me to the punch she's has done such a fine job ,i'll have to sit back and watch.
i would love to follow your progress on your rover, PLEASE post some pics on my web site for all to enjoy,or anyone else .
good luck marc
www.singingcamel.com

[t.Russ]

I'm in the same boat. Unfortunately mine was outside and hasn't been turned over since 1981 lol

Well let's keep in touch lol: I for one need all the moral support I can get and am already getting cold feet before I even start. Good luck to you too

[t.Russ]

i would like to add my two cents but terri ann beat me to the punch she's has done such a fine job ,i'll have to sit back and watch.
i would love to follow your progress on your rover, PLEASE post some pics on my web site for all to enjoy,or anyone else .
good luck marc
www.singingcamel.com

I shall be pleased to share my progress (or otherwise) with you all and will certainly post some photos. I agree marc, teri ann's advice was excellent and gives me a head start on the road ahead of me