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Thread: Diesel won't start

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    101

    Default Diesel won't start

    Having trouble with a 2.5 n/a diesel that until today ran like a clock. I've had the rover about 8 months and it starts first time every time. Today however it started, ran REAL rough for about 10 seconds, died and belched white smoke out the tail pipe. I did have a problem a few weeks ago when my son filled it with gas vice diesel, but I've its been running great once drained and refilled. I'm not sure how to trouble shoot a diesel, petrol is easy, gas, air and spark. I've noticed a little weeping of diesel around the fuel filter, not a major leak, but damp. The fuel lines there are hard plastic and I've considered putting a banjo clamp on them, but they don't seem that loose. Since the diesel is "Simpler" i.e. no spark to worry about, how do I test for fuel? I know that the pressures can be high so I want to be careful. No problem with air, so I'm going on the assumption that its fuel related. Short of taking the injectors out, is there an easy way to see if I'm getting fuel to the injector pump? What about the glow plugs? 12volts?, They appear to be wired in series so I guess if one is bad, none would work? Since its been over 100 degrees all June, not too sure how much the plugs are needed... Sorry for such a long post, but trying to provide as much detail as possible. I charged the battery and tried again but it just doesn't want to catch, kinda like no fuel. Thanks for any help.
    Geoff

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Guilderland,NY
    Posts
    484

    Default

    First check to see if you hear the fuel stop solenoid click open when someone turns the key to the on position for you.
    The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    224

    Default

    As mentioned above, make sure you fuel stop solenoid is functioning correctly. That's the most likely culprit for a no start on these diesels. Next, if you want to make sure you are getting fuel through the injector pump, just crack the line at one of the injectors while some one cranks the engine. Actually, a better idea is to pull the fuel line after the fuel pump, but before the injector pump. Put the end into a container and crank the engine over. You should get a healthy flow. If not, your fuel pump is shot. On my Tdi engine, the fuel pump went, but the injector pump was able to draw enough fuel to sort of almost run the engine.

    If all of the above checks out OK, you could have a blockage in the fuel tank. I've had similar symptoms to yours and what I had to do was pull a line back at the fuel tank and blow a bit of air into the tank, clearing the pick-up tube (remove the fuel cap first). I've had to do this twice now in the last year and a half. Runs fine afterwards.

    Hope this helps.

    Brett
    Series 3 88 Diesel Soft Top
    Ex-Mod 110 Tdi

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    101

    Default Thanks

    Thanks folks, I'll give that a try first thing in the morning (Still too hot outside!). I guess the fuel solenoid is easy to find, gotta put the shop manual CD in the computer and track it down. Does sound like a solenoid issue as just quit working.
    Geoff

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Guilderland,NY
    Posts
    484

    Default

    It will be right on the injection pump and will click audibly when the ignition is switched to the on position.
    The Goat, 2.8 Daihatsu Td, '73 coil conversion

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    101

    Default Solenoid good

    Ok, I can hear the solenoid clicking, and I've got voltage on the lead when the key is turned. I found what I believe is the fuel pump and tried the manual priming, but the lever doesn't appear to do anything. There is absolutely no resistance when the lever is pressed. I can't find anything is the shop manual about testing the fuel pump. Guess I can follow Moose's advice and crack the line out of the fuel pump prior to the injection pump and crank the engine over. Thanks to all, let you know how it goes, just gotta get someone to crank it over while I'm under the hood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    224

    Default

    Geoff, if the arm of the fuel pump on the engine side of the pump in resting on the high part of the cam lobe, the hand lever will have no resistance. Try cranking the engine over about a 1/4 turn at a time, if you can, and retry the hand lever. When the pump arm comes off the lobe you should feel the resistance and be able to pump fuel, providing the pump is working.

    Brett
    Series 3 88 Diesel Soft Top
    Ex-Mod 110 Tdi

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    101

    Default Running, but leaking...

    Ok Moose, thanks for the guidance. Managed to get the manual lever on fuel pump working and the good news is that I was able to bleed all the air out of the lines (To filter, and also the injection pump), and start the engine. Bad news is that it appears that the injection pump is leaking. Its hard to tell where, but if you look at the two pics I've posted, there is a torx screw on the rear of the injector pump that is tight but leaking, and it appears on the top of the pump where the throttle linkage is is leaking too. I can't figgure what could possible be leaking there, and you can't really see without dismantleing the whole thing.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/31277813@N06/3675983399/
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/31277813@N06/3676797688/

    Not sure what to do next, but I image that a new injection pump isn't cheap!!! Its not a small leak, could probably fill a baby food jar in 10 min running. Kinda bummed.
    Geoff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    224

    Default

    The torx screw looks like it is just to hold the cover on at that corner. Funny that it would start to leak if it is tight. Are you sure the second leak isn't just running down on the torx screw? Maybe? hopefully? The other leak, well I don't know what to tell you. Could just be a fastener come loose under the throttle. Bugger of a spot though. Mine sprung a leak once but it was just a loose bolt and easy to get too.

    Yeah, the injector pumps are very expensive but I doubt you need a new one. Worst case, you take the truck into a diesel shop and have them take a look. I would think this shouldn't be to big a deal to fix.

    Brett
    Series 3 88 Diesel Soft Top
    Ex-Mod 110 Tdi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    101

    Default Need a professional

    I've been reading the shop manual and looks like its more work than I think I can do in my garage. From what I know, even a tiny speck of dust can cause major trouble. We don't really have any land rover specialty shops locally, but I think I've found a diesel shop that can handle the work. Since the history of the vehicle is unknown, I guess this would be a good time to get the timing belt done too... Guess I'll have to check with our hosts and get all the little pieces necessary for the rebuild as its a sure bet the diesel shop wont have all the gaskets etc. Thanks for letting me vent, let you know when its back on the road. We've had 14 days in a row over 100 deg so I'm not spending too much time in the garage lately!
    Geoff

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