Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23

Thread: Door seal alternatives

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bozeman MT
    Posts
    698

    Default

    thanks gang.

    which lip has to be cut off?
    is it the inside?


    or the outside around the door?


    and what happens around my softop post and sill? Do I need to order duplicate parts for my hard top?


  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Brewer, Maine
    Posts
    1,379

    Default

    It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
    Jim

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Washington DC
    Posts
    513

    Default

    nah, the defender seal is held on by spring pressure of the metal insert. just peel it off when you change roofs and then press it onto the new roof.

    don't cut your doors dude. really. don't...


    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-ME View Post
    It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
    Jim
    A Land Rover would never turn up to collect an Oscar. It'd be far too busy doing something important, somewhere, for someone."



  4. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bozeman MT
    Posts
    698

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-ME View Post
    It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
    Jim
    Whats the best way to remove that lip? Do I need to seal the bare metal in any way?

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Brewer, Maine
    Posts
    1,379

    Default

    Nick,
    I don't know. I've always used the rivet on type.
    Jim
    PS
    Did you get your soft top squared away?

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bozeman MT
    Posts
    698

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim-ME View Post
    Nick,

    Did you get your soft top squared away?
    not exactly - Id love some pics if you have any.

    I'm also waiting for find a better pop rivet tool - the $10 version from the local hardware left them loose and weak. Until I find that I'm not going to drill the body.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Phippsburg, ME
    Posts
    886

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NickDawson View Post
    'm also waiting for find a better pop rivet tool - the $10 version from the local hardware left them loose and weak. Until I find that I'm not going to drill the body.
    Get yourself a Marson "Big Daddy." It's the cat's whiskers. Will handle the toughest genuine Land Rover pop rivet with ease. Look on ebay / the web and be prepared to spend around $100-$125. The LAST rivet gun you will ever buy (and I've bought plenty).

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Brewer, Maine
    Posts
    1,379

    Default

    Nick,
    I'll post pics tomorrow when I've got daylight.
    Jim

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    909

    Default

    Nick,

    Slow down! Do not, I repeat, Do not cut anything off the door tops! You will ruin the door tops, and be really ticked off.

    The lip the seal fits onto is the one you have circlied in your first picture, and again in the third on your hoop set. The u shaped channel in the cross section drawing I posted slides over it. the lip everyone is recommending you grind off is the small 90 degree bend at the top of the lip, on the bulkhead in your first photo. If you really want to cut it off, a grinder will make short work of it. Just remember, its not the whole lip, but the very small 90 degree bend at the top of said lip.

    However, you don't need to cut it off. If you take your time installing the aftermarket seal I'm talking about, you can work the channel of the seal over than lip, and it will fit just fine. I'm not to this stage on my truck yet, otherwise I'd take photos for you. Let me be clear here. I am not recommending the actual defender seal, but an aftermarket seal that is similar to (and less costly than) the defender seals. Check out the web link I posted.
    No sense in cutting somthing off your truck if you dont need to.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    East Quogue NY
    Posts
    327

    Default

    Thanks for the links and advice Thixon. I've been looking for this sort of solution for replacing my old door seals.

    Do you know where in their huge catalog the seal you recommended is found ? [edit: found it, page 108]

    Regards, Andrew
    '63 SIIA 88" SW
    Last edited by Andrew IIA; 07-20-2009 at 10:45 AM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
About us
Unparalleled product knowledge. Our mission is to support all original Land Rover models no longer supported by your local Land Rover franchise. We offer the entire range of Land Rover Genuine Parts direct from Land Rover UK, as well as publish North America's largest Land Rover publication, Rovers Magazine.
Join us