Door seal alternatives

[NickDawson]

thanks gang.

which lip has to be cut off?
is it the inside?


or the outside around the door?


and what happens around my softop post and sill? Do I need to order duplicate parts for my hard top?

[Jim-ME]

It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
Jim

[daveb]

nah, the defender seal is held on by spring pressure of the metal insert. just peel it off when you change roofs and then press it onto the new roof.

don't cut your doors dude. really. don't...

It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
Jim

[NickDawson]

It is the lip on the bulkhead in your first picture. The is nothing on the door or window frame. Yes you will need duplicates for your hard top.
Jim

Whats the best way to remove that lip? Do I need to seal the bare metal in any way?

[Jim-ME]

Nick,
I don't know. I've always used the rivet on type.
Jim
PS
Did you get your soft top squared away?

[NickDawson]

Nick,

Did you get your soft top squared away?

not exactly - Id love some pics if you have any.

I'm also waiting for find a better pop rivet tool - the $10 version from the local hardware left them loose and weak. Until I find that I'm not going to drill the body.

[TedW]

'm also waiting for find a better pop rivet tool - the $10 version from the local hardware left them loose and weak. Until I find that I'm not going to drill the body.

Get yourself a Marson "Big Daddy." It's the cat's whiskers. Will handle the toughest genuine Land Rover pop rivet with ease. Look on ebay / the web and be prepared to spend around $100-$125. The LAST rivet gun you will ever buy (and I've bought plenty).

[Jim-ME]

Nick,
I'll post pics tomorrow when I've got daylight.
Jim

[thixon]

Nick,

Slow down! Do not, I repeat, Do not cut anything off the door tops! You will ruin the door tops, and be really ticked off.

The lip the seal fits onto is the one you have circlied in your first picture, and again in the third on your hoop set. The u shaped channel in the cross section drawing I posted slides over it. the lip everyone is recommending you grind off is the small 90 degree bend at the top of the lip, on the bulkhead in your first photo. If you really want to cut it off, a grinder will make short work of it. Just remember, its not the whole lip, but the very small 90 degree bend at the top of said lip.

However, you don't need to cut it off. If you take your time installing the aftermarket seal I'm talking about, you can work the channel of the seal over than lip, and it will fit just fine. I'm not to this stage on my truck yet, otherwise I'd take photos for you. Let me be clear here. I am not recommending the actual defender seal, but an aftermarket seal that is similar to (and less costly than) the defender seals. Check out the web link I posted.
No sense in cutting somthing off your truck if you dont need to.

[Andrew IIA]

Thanks for the links and advice Thixon. I've been looking for this sort of solution for replacing my old door seals.

Do you know where in their huge catalog the seal you recommended is found ? [edit: found it, page 108]

Regards, Andrew
'63 SIIA 88" SW