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Thread: Bed Repair

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    384

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    Ahh floor replacement brings back memories(of not too long ago). If you need the big round head rivets that hold on the cross braces let me know, I have a lifetime supply.
    1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
    1971 88 (restored and as new)
    1967 88 (the next project)

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    384

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    Quote Originally Posted by thixon View Post
    My plan is to flap disc everything smooth, and then weld beads on the back sides, that I won't grind smooth.
    Nice job. If you were looking for a more OEM look, than the bead welds, you could use metal to metal bonding agent and countersunk flat head rivets that give the appearance of spot welds when painted over. If interested let me know and I will send you the details.
    1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
    1971 88 (restored and as new)
    1967 88 (the next project)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    909

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bertha View Post
    Ahh floor replacement brings back memories(of not too long ago). If you need the big round head rivets that hold on the cross braces let me know, I have a lifetime supply.
    Thanks Bertha. My lifetime supply will only get me through my bed repair, and possibly my refitting of my galv trim. So I may take you up on that offer.



    Quote Originally Posted by Bertha View Post
    Nice job. If you were looking for a more OEM look, than the bead welds, you could use metal to metal bonding agent and countersunk flat head rivets that give the appearance of spot welds when painted over. If interested let me know and I will send you the details.
    Thanks but it aint over yet. You may yet have the opportunity to say "Crappy job...way to go."

    So far, the flat head solid rivets are my plan. I've also entertained the possibility of using countersunk blind rivets. My 8 year old son thinks those look cooler than the solid flat heads, so I may have to yield. We'll see. Part of the point of this build was to get him interested in this type of work, and for him to learn a few things. The healey 100-4 project will end up belonging to him one day(shh, don't tell him. He doesnt know yet), so the rover is functioning to wet his appetitie for car resoration. If he really presses for the countersunk pops, then thats the way I'll go.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    384

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    Quote Originally Posted by thixon View Post
    My lifetime supply will only get me through my bed repair, and possibly my refitting of my galv trim. So I may take you up on that offer.
    I am talking about the large round head rivets that hold on the cross braces under the bed, not the smaller round head rivets(which I have a lifettime supply of as well) that hold the galv on.
    1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
    1971 88 (restored and as new)
    1967 88 (the next project)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Berkley, Michigan
    Posts
    96

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    You guys are doing an awesome job.
    I thought I was slick when I replaced the 109 pickup bed with tread plate and galvanized cross supports eight or nine years ago. I was unable to find anything to be used as the three length-wise supports, they run the length of the bed. After talking with our hosts and BP I left them out. I've used the bed for landscaping and rock hauling without issues.
    Nice to see the great work.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    New Britain,CT
    Posts
    191

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    Thixon, What are using between the steal supports and the tub floor? Do you know if you can get the original canvas stuff?
    72 SIII

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    NY
    Posts
    384

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    Quote Originally Posted by yank View Post
    Thixon, What are using between the steal supports and the tub floor? Do you know if you can get the original canvas stuff?
    Canvas bufferes were used on early trucks. Later trucks used rubber buffers which Rovers North carries.
    1965 109 2door hardtop (restored years ago)
    1971 88 (restored and as new)
    1967 88 (the next project)

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    909

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    Yank and Bertha,

    I'm actually floundering on that one. My truck did have the rubber supports. I've thought about a number of things to use, including layers of inner tube.

    I work for a wood pressure treating company. We use belts of rubber stamps to apply a stamp to wood that we've treated. I've been browsing through the worn out stamps trying to find something close in terms of thickness. I may very well cut supports out of an old lumber stamp!

    Yeah, I'm that cheap.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Phoenix AZ
    Posts
    1,358

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    Travis,
    I have a couple of redundant axle limit straps that should work very well. I can throw one in your elusive package if you want.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Augusta, GA
    Posts
    909

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    Quote Originally Posted by greenmeanie View Post
    Travis,
    I have a couple of redundant axle limit straps that should work very well. I can throw one in your elusive package if you want.
    Gregor,

    That would be much appreciated.
    Travis
    '66 IIa 88

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