Few more things
Make sure the firing order is correct.
With the 1 cylinder set at Top Dead Center (TDC) and the timing mark on the pulley lined up with the timing pointer. The rotor should point to the 1 cylinder firing position of the dizzy cap. The progression of the rotor around the cap should be...
1-3-4-2 (firing order)
It is possible to have the timing mark lined up and the rotor be pointing at # 4 cylinder firing position so make sure # 1 cylinder is at TDC and not # 4.
My method of static timing...
1) ignition off. Remove dizzy cap (leave plug wires connected to cap)
2) disconnect the low tension lead from the points.
3) attach a test light to the low tension led at the points and the other end to the "+" side of the battery (I use the battery cause mines in the engine bay close to the dizzy and I'm assuming yours is)
4) have the # 1 cylinder set so it's just before lining up the timing marks or just a little before TDC on the power stroke
5) the test light should be on
6) rotate the engine by hand till the points just open. The test light will go off when the points just start to open.
7) If the timing mark lines up when the points just start to open. Good to go. If not...
a) loosen the dizzy hold down clamp/device
b) rotate the the dizzy body till the points just start to open with the timing marks lined up.
c)if the timings good clamp down the dizzy.
d) double check by getting #1 set to just before TDC again. Rotate the engine by hand till the timing marks just line up. Watch the test light as the timing marks line up. The test light should go off just as the timing marks line up. If not repeat previous procedure.
8) Reconnect low tension lead to points.
My method varies a little from TerriAnn's ( that I referd you to on a different post) but I like it better because the ignitions off. Either method of stationary timing should work.
Walker
1968 Series IIA-"Ronnie"
88" SW, 2.25L Petrol, LHD