prepping and re-painting a hard top

[NickDawson]

Hey gang - inspired by my recently re-tuned truck and the beauties at the MAR, the wife and I are interested in refinishing the hard top. Thats right, wife - she kept commenting on the hard tops on the other series trucks - including BMhoan55's Series III (which has the lining in tact, wow!).

Any time you can get the spousal engagement factor above a negative, you have to take advantage! And, since its close to fall in VA, this is a good time to start thinking about the hard top again. Of course it goes without saying, but... I'm not putting cosmetics before mechanics, but if Susan wants to get involved then count me in!

My hard top is structurally great, but cosmetically its a dull gray - less paint than bare metal.

I did some searches and found a lot on primers and paint. But in terms of stripping, I have some questions: My thought was to clean it up with steel wool and sand paper - maybe not strip to bare metal but at least smooth it out. Understanding that beauty is in the eye of the beholder, is that a reasonable approach?

Assuming it is, I want to follow Jac04's lead and try and spray it myself. I can rent a sprayer.... In terms of primer I saw a lot of info about Veraprime and epoxy primers going on galvy parts. Is Veraprime, or generic epoxy primer appropriate for the Al top? Anything I need to consider, especially in lieu of any advice on prepping what is currently there?

[Nium]

Most epoxy paints are noxious and require appropriate ventilators and ventilation to reduce risks. Strictly adhere to manufacturers safety precautions when applying them. Surface preparation must be strictly adhered to also or else the paint won't stick and you'll get craters (spots where the paint doesn't adhere). Epoxy paints are suppose to last much longer though.

[NickDawson]

Strictly adhere to manufacturers safety precautions when applying them. Surface preparation must be strictly adhered to also or else the paint won't stick and you'll get craters

Did I mention that my "shop" is 100% outside? - no garage, no walls...
But, I don't need lung cancer even if the wind is in my favor. Good tip, thanks! I have a decent respirator, I'll make sure its rated accordingly.

As for prep, and in response to craters, I'm willing to accept a result that is less than perfect - I've seen brush on jobs and they are far better than how my top looks currently. Given that, anything I besides roughing up the surface with sand paper and smoothing it out with steel wool that I should be aware of?

[brucejohn]

Jac04 was using Citristrip on his for old paint removal. I will be interested to see the others' replies as I too have hardtops needing repainting. I am beginning to see it is a journey, not a destination.

[Nium]

Nick it depends on the epoxy paint you're using the prep needed so you have to check with manufacturer. Friend of mine used some. He did have a garage and even with a paint vapor mask and a ventilator fan circulating air he eventually made a mask with hose to outside air because he had started to feel light headed with the vapor mask. I seem to recall he stripped it to bare metal then had to use an acid wash to really clean the metal. He still got a few craters but they were really small. I'll have to ask him what prep he did and let you know.

[kevkon]

Nick, you don't need to strip the paint if it's not showing any adhesion problems. The current paint is, in effect your primer. A light sanding and an application of prepsol to remove all oil, dirt, and silicones and you are good to go.
Do not get involved with epoxy paints!
A good acrylic enamal auto finish applied with an HVLP gun is your best bet.

[NickDawson]

Nick, you don't need to strip the paint if it's not showing any adhesion problems. The current paint is, in effect your primer. A light sanding and an application of prepsol to remove all oil, dirt, and silicones and you are good to go.
Do not get involved with epoxy paints!
A good acrylic enamal auto finish applied with an HVLP gun is your best bet.

I like this plan! Thanks Kevkon

[JackIIA]

Do not get involved with epoxy paints!
A good acrylic enamal auto finish applied with an HVLP gun is your best bet.

Losing me abit. Are you saying avoid epoxy (because you're assuming the use of hardeners and Isocyanates = cyanide)...or a durability issue, finish quality, etc?

I've thought about a 2K job (using a HVLP gun and air fed respirator) but even then, not really keen on killing all the neighborhood kids with those airbourne hardeners.

[jac04]

I think that you need to make sure that you know the proper prep steps before getting into which topcoat to use. I was lucky that the CitriStrip did not remove my original factory paint - that way I could use the factory paint as a 'base'. Any bare aluminum spots I cleaned and spot-primed with Eastwood self-etching primer.

However, if you have mostly aluminum showing, I think your best bet is stripping off any remaining paint, then prepping. Dupont has a 2-step cleaning & stabilizing process for bare aluminum - 225S and 226S:
http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...19291_226S.pdf

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/...19290_225S.pdf

[I Leak Oil]

Bare metal, even if it's just a few spots needs to be primed. Existing paint can be painted over but I highly recommend a sealer to prevent the new paint from lifting the old.
Epoxy primer is a good choice. The person applying it must take the necessary safety measures as with all paint.
Self-etch is fine also but only on bare metal, it doesn't like being sprayed over existing paint/primer.