T-Gasket on rear main?

[superpowerdave]

Okay - pulled the motor. Fun times.

Found the rear main seal had been affixed using blue silicone ... more fun times. Once I get everything cleaned up and ready, where do the t-gaskets go? I got two with my kit and there weren't any on the old seal.

Rig in question is a 1963 109 diesel. Thanks in advance.

[SafeAirOne]

They go along the sides of the rear main bearing cap. I'll see if I can find the picture...

[SafeAirOne]

[superpowerdave]

So the head has to come off to replace the rear main?

Where did you find the picture? I searched and searched in vain.

[SafeAirOne]

So the head has to come off to replace the rear main?

I don't think so. The picture shows the engine upside-down, as if it is inverted on an engine stand with the oil pan removed. What you see there is the crankshaft. The round part on the left of the diagram is the end of the crankshaft where the flywheel and clutch assembly bolt up. (the pic is of a 2.5 engine, but it is essentially the same as the 2.25 as far as the t-gasket goes)

Where did you find the picture? I searched and searched in vain.

I got mine out of the defender 90/110 workshop manual, just because I know RIGHT where it is. You can also find the info on the SIII WSM on page 12-41 (section 12-21-20).

See items (and paragraphs) 25, 26 and 32 from the SIII WSM, below:

[superpowerdave]

Safeair-

Thanks. Now that I got off my lazy can and walked out to the garage I see where I'm an idiot Although in the first picture where the number "9" is shown appears as though it protrudes beneath the oil pan ... I'll flip her over tomorrow and take a look.

So Hylomar for the moon shaped halves, and silicone grease for the t-gaskets? Anything else I might need

[philbert]

On a related note, and to avoid a new thread, is anyone actually trimming the top aspect of the T-seal (side facing the cylinder head) as directed in the green manual? I tried this but i could not find a good way to evenly trim that surface of the Tseal.

[jimrr]

i do not recall trimming anything .......... i do know you're much better off avoiding RTV, i use permatex. i haven't done those crank seals in years but comparing the seal system to modern stuff it's no wonder land rovers leak!!!,

[roverp480]

I had the T seals start leaking on an 18 month old Series 3 . The seals had shrunk and were recessed about 1/8" into the cap . Rather than dismantle the engine I cut short lengths of seal about 1/4" long , coated them with Wellseal , pushed then into the recess, and then bolted the oil pan back on with a new gasket.. This pushed the new bits into the grove and also compressed the existing 'T' pieces making them seal better on the block/cap joint and cured the problem.

[philbert]

i do not recall trimming anything .......... i do know you're much better off avoiding RTV, i use permatex. i haven't done those crank seals in years but comparing the seal system to modern stuff it's no wonder land rovers leak!!!,

Which permatex product do you use? Ultra black? Gasket maker? It seems like there are a lot of different opinions on the best product to use for the rear crankshaft seal, and it seems super important since this area is prone to leaking oil.

As for trimming the flat part of the t-piece, its mentioned in step #26 on the diagram in a previous post on this thread. My worry is that if the cut is not perfectly square it might actuality worsen any leak. At this point I'll likely leave it uncut and hope for the best