Still working on the restoration of the diesel and made good progress today. The bed is back in place along with the fuel tanks and exhaust. Hope to get the firewall secured tomorrow so I can get the door frames and doors up off the ground :-)
Still working on the restoration of the diesel and made good progress today. The bed is back in place along with the fuel tanks and exhaust. Hope to get the firewall secured tomorrow so I can get the door frames and doors up off the ground :-)
Swaped from the Weber 1V back to the Rochester B carb on my 109 after changing out the head to an unleaded head. I think the valves in the old head were so leaky that it was causing drivability problems, that I had been blaming on carbs....
I also pulled all 4 wheels on the '02 Disco II to check the brakes. All were fine, but the two front wheels were badly siezed onto the hubs. I'm glad we didn't have a flat. The Disco II just completed a 1000 mile round trip without any issues, and averaged over 16 mpg including a number of 75 mph miles.
Bob
Oh, then I replaced the front AVM locking hubs with stock fine spline drive flanges. They were always locked, and constantly leaked.
Last edited by siiirhd88; 07-07-2010 at 08:01 PM. Reason: Did more work...
Roverdrive, Stainless exhaust, Rear Seal on Tranfer Case.
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67 Series II
71 Series IIa 88" ACR 2.8 Power Plus
89 RRC SWB 2-Door 2.4L tdi Spanish
93 D110 NAS 327
94 2x D90 NAS #'s 1076, 1181
95 3x RRC 2-SWB, 1-LWB
Spent Money! Ordered a new servo so hopefully the rover won't die every time I touch the brake peddle.
How come dumb stuff always seems so smart when your doing it?
David Crockett
Started herculining, got my hand throttle in as well as a voltage stabilizer
73 SIII swb 139 CI, rochester carb
working on:
rear bumper, window glazing, roll cage, paint top, etc... etc... etc....
http://jims73rover.blogspot.com/
Been trying to remove the fuel filler cover for days. One bolt and the 2 side screws wouldn't budget. Tried everything. So I drilled them out today but still couldn't get them off...then I found they had nuts on the back end DOH!!!! Oh well got the cover off and now know what all I need to order from our hosts.
Drove down to the end of the block and back TWICE I had to clamp off the vacuum line to the servo as it has a vacuum leak and every time I would touch the brakes it would die.
How come dumb stuff always seems so smart when your doing it?
David Crockett
As part of my Lightweight rebuild, I installed a rebuilt transmission form RN. It leaked horribly before I even drove the vehicle. A Roverdrive aluminum x-fer case cover and new selector shaft seals took care of the worst of the leaks, but it still drips a little.
Now, it is a little embarrassing to have spent 1.5 years restoring the vehicle and have to put a piece of cardboard under it if I drive to someone's house just in case it decides to mark its territory. So, I designed, built & installed what I call a DMS (Drip Management System). It is a small aluminum tray mounted to the chassis under the main gearbox (the skid plate catches any drips off the x-fer case).
Here it is:
--Mark
1973 SIII 109 RHD 2.5NA Diesel
0-54mph in just under 11.5 minutes
(9.7 minutes now that she's a 3-door).
Today I removed the wiring harness from my new bugeye. It was a rats nest, many devices not hooked up and a fried red wire the full length.
The remainder of the harness wires are in great shape, it is a newer harness. I replaced the red wire and taped it back up. While at it I did some engine degreasing.
While in the process I noticed that the truck has a manual solenoid also (not used). How are one of these removed?
I rewired up the starting / run circuits with some temporary wiring so I can work on getting the engine running better. It currently runs like crap. It starts and idles but wants to stall when you give it some gas.
I have a long laundry list of things to do to the truck.
Bob