What did you do to your Rover today?

[LaneRover]

When I was back East last time I had to stop quickly cause an idiot in a Jeep started to turn into another road like I wasn't even there. I jammed on the brakes and the person then saw me and didn't continue turning. As I continued on I thought, that brake pedal went to close to the floor that time - which it had.

So now that I am back east again I had to replace a few brake lines. I decided to just replace sections instead of lines (after I had bought the lines of course) because the rear axle is looking a bit nasty and I know that I will be doing a bunch of work on that sooner rather than later and why replace a full brake line twice if I don't have to!

Kudos goes to Rovers North for excellent customer service when parts got shipped to the wrong coast at first!!

[txffjim]

trying to get the timing sorted out. uuuugh!

[redmondrover]

+1. Curious to see how it stays up. I need to redo the headliners on my 109...and that looks like a good method.

Me too. I followed the advice of the shop where I bought the materials and used the same contact adhesive that is used for laminate kitchen counters. Apparently the same stuff that is in the 3M spray cans but you can get a gallon of this stuff for the cost of one 3M can. I also used it to adhere the sound deadening material (1/8" closed cell foam with a limp mass vinyl layer) to the seat box. So I've placed my bets on it lasting for a long time!


As for TJR's question, no it does not shed fibers. You can pull some fibers out, but it takes effort. It is a very densely woven fabric--easier to cut with wire cutters than scissors.

[printjunky]

Little rattlecan fun while I wait for some wiring supplies to arrive. The St. Patrick's Cross is a bit off, but it looks pretty cool for having eyeballed it from a laptop screen sitting 5 feet away.

[Moose]

Well, with a herculean effort, we managed to get most everything sorted last night, got the ol' 2.5 NA diesel fired up and I took the long suffering 88 on it's maiden voyage around the block. Initial observations are it is flippin noisy and friggin hot. Of course the floors and tunnel cover hadn't been refitted, so what else would you expect? Sure did seem to honk along nice though. Didn't get to really wind it out but I'm hoping for good things there. So far, about the best way to describe it would be... SWEET!

It was a fun process, but not without some minor drama along the way. The petrol engine came out without fuss, as they do. Prior to fitting, the diesel received a new timing belt, block heater and clutch.



One of the legs for the battery tray needed to be removed and the right side engine mount cut off.



The viscous fan on the 2.5's stick out a bit too much and will foul the rad in the Series, so we modified the fan from the 2.25 petrol by drilling a centre hole for the viscous fan threaded bit to poke though, drilled four new bolt holes, swapped pulleys and bolted it all onto the diesel. Presto chango, no more interference.



The lines for the oil cooler were cut and a short loop was made so that the engine could be run until I get some new correct lines made up.



The engine was lowered into the 88 and offered up to the gearbox. It took the appropriate use of cursing and swearing to get the engine and gearbox to mate up, but they finally succumbed to the foul language and we were able to bolt them together. The left side chassis mount was used and a new mount was made up for the right side.

The 2.5 came out of my 110 and was originally operated by an accelerator cable. For the 88, we went with the Series mechanical accelerator bits so that I could retain my hand throttle. That and it seemed the easier way to go. The brackettry (?) was removed from beneath the vacuum pump, highly modified and replaced and the system seem to work slick as can be.





The rad was then reinstalled along with the shroud, and wouldn't you know it, the fan was centred just where it should be. Humph. Gotta like that.

The opening for the air intake on the 2.5 NA actually faces away from where the filter sits in the Series trucks, so in a daring feet of ingenuity we cut off the opening bit, closed the hole and re-welded the opening on the top at the centre of the intake. With a small extension added to the oil bath filter canister, the intake hose from the 110 was a perfect fit.





About all that was left to do was swap in the fuel filter from the 110, run a fuel return line and fire her up.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Go-SPdfCEs


The truck is still at my buddies shop. I'll get out there one night next week for a bit of fine fettling and tidying up, then bring it home and start enjoying it all over again.

A big shout out to my buddies Tom, Dave and Geoff for all their help with this project. Tom is the one who did the welding and fabricating and I couldn't have done this without him. Also thanks to SafeAirOne, Jim-ME and junkyddog11 for answering all my questions.

Brett

[J.McKelvey]

Nice job!! Really like the idea for the throttle linkage.

[Tim Smith]

Great job Brett!

[Moose]

Thanks. It's been a fun project, just took two years to get to it. The big hassle was finding the time and the having to travel clear across Toronto (usually in rush hour traffic) to my friends shop whenever I could work on it.

There are still a couple issues to work out. Need to get a relay and hook up the glow plugs. The temp gauge isn't working. Hopefully that is just a matter of swapping the sender for the original sender out of the 2.25 petrol engine. And for some crazy reason, when I switch the key off, the engine keeps running. But when I pull the wire off the stop solenoid, the engine stops. I used the coil wire for this function. Something odd going on there.

Hope to get over and finish everything off on Tuesday or Wednesday. Sure looking forward to the increased fuel mileage. That and I just dig the sound of a diesel Land Rovers. They sound... right.

Brett

[Tim Smith]

Probably just the fuel solenoid not functioning which is giving you the shut down trouble. As long as the engine doesn't start consuming it's own oil, you should be fine.

[siiirhd88]

If the no shutdown problem continues, try removing the bulb from the charge light. Removing the bulb will break the circuit from the alternator back to the ignition switch. The alternator power from the brown with yellow trace wire could be backfeeding to the ignition switch, powering the white wires with the key in 'off'.

I've had this problem before, which required a resistor to be wired into the circuit.

Bob