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Thread: Clutch still slipping

  1. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Hawai'i
    Posts
    13

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    Well, it's been raining here for the past couple days so I haven't gotten out to fixing things, I don't have a garage. I figure the last thing I want is my transmission getting rained IN. But it looks like today is going to be nice so I will open it and look inside and try the slave pressure test mentioned above.

    Thanks alot for going to the trouble of taking the pictures, I really appreciate all the help.

  2. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Troy Michigan
    Posts
    332

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    Quote Originally Posted by northoceanbeach
    Well, it's been raining here for the past couple days so I haven't gotten out to fixing things, I don't have a garage. I figure the last thing I want is my transmission getting rained IN. But it looks like today is going to be nice so I will open it and look inside and try the slave pressure test mentioned above.

    Thanks alot for going to the trouble of taking the pictures, I really appreciate all the help.

    It's got to be rough dealing with rain when you have to put up with living in Hawaii!

  3. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    253

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    I also have a Series III and the only clutch adjustment I found was when I replaced the Clutch Master Cylinder.
    In the attached picture you can see that the push rod is threaded on one side where it is attached to the clutch pedal. You will have to remove the dust cover on the clutch MC bracket. I had to remove the whole fender(wing) to get access to this on my 1972 left hand drive Series III.


    Also make sure you don't have any air in the system. Bleed the clutch using some rubber tubbing atached to the slave cylinder slave bleed screw going into a jar filled 1/4 with some clutch fluid in it . Un-screw the slave bleed screw and pump the clutch pedal till you free the sytem of air. Keep an eye on the clutch master cylinder fluid level as it will empty. As soon as no more air bubbles appear in the jar, tighten the slave bleed screw with an open box wrench then remove the tube. This should give you full pedal hight.
    Last edited by LH Drive; 08-26-2007 at 10:10 AM.

  4. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Albuquerque
    Posts
    1,226

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    best way to bleed a clutch or brake is a long tube that will reach from the bleed valve all the way back to the rez. fix the rez end so that it is submerged and stays submerged and pump away
    '64 Series IIA 88 Canvas Tilt
    '68 Series IIA RHD Ambulance
    '76 Spitfire 1500
    '07 LR3 (Series Recovery Vehicle)

  5. #45
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    253

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    Were you sold the correct Clutch Release Bearing? Did you place them side by side, new next to old and see that they were the same. I've seen pictures of two different lengths, one tall and one short. Also did you tighten the PP all the way to mesh with the Fly Wheel? On a Diaphram PP this has to be done in a cross pattern gradually and evenly, if not you may damage the Clutch Disk plate. What kind of PP did you install, Diaphram or Coil spring cover ?
    1972 NAS Series 88 SW

  6. #46

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    I would agree with lh drive , I would be checking my release bearing , that its the right one , that its installed right , that its not binding or cock-eyed on its sleeve , Im not much into land rovers but I done a few clutches , it seems somthings not seated , or correctly assembled , [release bearing to the fork, ] the forks not in behind the bearing ?[ release bearing has a slot in it for the fork to fit into ?], keeping pressure on the presure plate fingers, You might be looking for another new clutch soon if you drive it much while its slipping

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